How to Diagnose and Fix a Clunking Control Arm on Your Honda Fit

How to Fix Control Arm Issue

If you're experiencing unusual noises, vibrations, or smells from the front end of your 2020 Honda Fit, a worn control arm bushing could be the culprit. This critical suspension component connects your wheel hub to the vehicle's frame, and when its rubber bushing deteriorates, it can't properly absorb road shocks, leading to a host of drivability and safety concerns. While not the most common repair on this model, it's a significant one that owners of similar vintage vehicles have faced. As one owner of a different 2020 model shared about their own control arm woes: "The bushings on my 2020 Subaru Legacy (Limited) are torn and I was planning on replacing the front lower control arms myself after the mechanic quoted me $1900." This highlights the substantial cost incentive for a DIY approach.

Symptoms

The symptoms of a failing control arm or bushing are often felt and heard before they are seen. The most common complaint is a distinct clicking or clunking noise, particularly when going over bumps, turning the steering wheel at low speeds, or during acceleration and deceleration. This noise is the metal part of the control arm moving excessively within its worn bushing or a loose ball joint.

You may also feel a vibration through the steering wheel or the floor of the vehicle, especially at highway speeds. This vibration is caused by the wheel assembly not being held in its proper alignment with a stable connection to the frame. In more advanced cases, the vehicle's handling will feel vague or imprecise. You might notice the steering isn't as responsive as it used to be, or the car may wander or pull slightly to one side, even after an alignment.

While less directly linked in the data, some owners report ancillary issues like persistent dashboard warning lights or problems with features like cruise control becoming inoperative. This can happen because a severely misaligned wheel, caused by a failed control arm, can confuse wheel speed sensors that feed data to the ABS, stability control, and adaptive cruise systems. One owner troubleshooting a cruise control issue noted, "The cruise main light activates but I get no response when I attempt to set the cruise control speed." While their specific fix was different, it underscores how suspension faults can create electronic gremlins.

A noticeable smell of burning rubber or excessive heat from a wheel area, while more commonly a brake issue, could theoretically occur if a severely misaligned tire is scrubbing against a component due to the bad control arm changing the wheel's position. Overheating of other components can follow from such persistent friction.

Most Likely Cause

Based on the synthesis of owner experiences, the primary cause of control arm issues on the 2020 Honda Fit is the deterioration of the rubber bushings within the control arm assembly. These bushings are designed to flex and absorb road impacts while keeping the metal components precisely located. Over time, exposure to heat, road salt, moisture, and constant stress causes this rubber to dry out, crack, and eventually tear completely.

Once the bushing is torn, it can no longer control the movement of the control arm. This allows metal-to-metal contact, creating the characteristic clunking noises. It also permits the wheel hub to shift out of its designed position, leading to alignment issues, uneven tire wear, and vibrations. The failure is a result of normal wear and tear accelerated by driving conditions, rather than a specific design flaw unique to this model year. It's a maintenance item that all vehicles will eventually need.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a bad control arm bushing requires a visual inspection and a physical check. You will need a safe way to lift and support the front of the vehicle, such as jack stands on a solid, level surface. A flashlight and a pry bar (like a large flathead screwdriver or a dedicated inspection bar) are essential tools.

First, safely lift the front of the car and support it on jack stands, then remove the front wheels for clear access. With the wheel off, visually inspect the front lower control arm bushings. Look for the large rubber bushing where the control arm connects to the subframe. Check for obvious cracks, tears, chunks of missing rubber, or signs that the rubber has separated from the metal sleeve. Shine your light on the bushing from all angles.

Next, perform a physical test. With the wheel still off, grip the control arm itself (not the brake rotor or strut) and try to move it vigorously forward, backward, and up and down. Have an assistant watch the bushing during this movement. Any visible shifting, twisting, or play in the bushing that seems excessive indicates failure. You can also insert your pry bar between the control arm and the subframe near the bushing and gently lever it. The bushing should allow a small amount of controlled flex but should not have large, loose gaps. Listen for clunking sounds during this process. Finally, inspect the ball joint (integral to many control arm designs) for torn rubber boots and play.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing a front lower control arm is a serious DIY job that requires mechanical skill, proper tools, and attention to safety. If you are not confident, seeking professional help is strongly advised.

1. Prepare the Vehicle: Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel you'll be working on slightly before lifting.

2. Lift and Secure: Using a floor jack, lift the front of the car at the designated jack point. Place a quality jack stand under a solid structural point like the subframe or dedicated stand point. Lower the jack onto the stand. Repeat for added safety if possible. Remove the wheel.

3. Disconnect Components: You will likely need to disconnect the end of the sway bar link from the control arm. This usually involves holding the stem with an Allen key while loosening the nut. Next, locate the ball joint where the control arm connects to the steering knuckle. You will need to remove the castle nut and use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to press the tapered stud out of the knuckle. This can require significant force.

4. Remove Control Arm Bolts: The control arm is attached to the subframe by one or two large bolts. Support the control arm with your hand or a jack, then remove these bolts. The arm should now be free. As one DIY-minded owner preparing for a similar job stated, "I was planning on replacing the front lower control arms myself after the mechanic quoted me $1900," highlighting the motivation for tackling this task.

5. Install New Control Arm: Position the new control arm into place. This is often easier if you loosely start all the bolts first. Hand-thread the large subframe bolts and the ball joint stud into the knuckle. Do not tighten fully yet.

6. Reconnect and Tighten: Reconnect the sway bar link to the new control arm and tighten its nut. Now, with the vehicle's weight still off the suspension (wheel off, control arm hanging), tighten the control arm's subframe bolts to the factory torque specification. This is critical for proper bushing life.

7. Final Assembly and Torque: Install the castle nut on the ball joint and torque it to spec, then insert a new cotter pin. Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground. Finally, with the vehicle's full weight on the suspension (on the ground), go back and re-torque the control arm subframe bolts to the final specification. This ensures the bushings are set in their neutral, loaded position.

8. Alignment is Mandatory: After replacing a control arm, a professional front-end alignment is absolutely necessary. The new part will have shifted the wheel's position.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Part: Front Lower Control Arm (Left or Right). It is highly recommended to buy an OEM-quality arm that includes the pre-pressed ball joint and bushings. Part numbers can vary; consult a dealer parts desk or a reputable online catalog using your VIN.
• Tools: Floor jack, at least two (2) robust jack stands, wheel chocks, lug wrench/socket, torque wrench (capable of ~80-150 ft-lbs), socket set (metric, including deep sockets), ratchet, breaker bar, Allen key set (for sway bar links), ball joint separator tool or pickle fork, hammer, pry bar, safety glasses.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to replace control arms varies dramatically between DIY and professional service, as the quotes from owners of similar vehicles reveal.

• Professional Repair: The most telling quote comes from an owner who was shocked by the shop price: "The bushings on my 2020 Subaru Legacy (Limited) are torn and I was planning on replacing the front lower control arms myself after the mechanic quoted me $1900." For a 2020 Honda Fit, a shop quote for replacing both front lower control arms at a dealership or independent shop could easily range from $1,200 to $1,800 or more. This cost includes high parts markups and 3-4 hours of labor at $150-$200 per hour.
• DIY Repair: The DIY cost is primarily the parts. A single quality aftermarket control arm can cost between $150 and $300. An OEM Honda arm will be more, potentially $400+ each. For both sides, parts total could be $300 to $800. Add in about $100 for a professional alignment afterward. The total DIY savings are substantial, often over $1,000, but require a significant investment of time, tools, and effort.

Prevention

Preventing premature control arm bushing failure is mostly about driving habits and routine inspection. Avoid harsh impacts with potholes, curbs, and speed bumps whenever possible, as these deliver sharp shocks that can tear rubber. When driving on rough roads, slow down. During routine maintenance like oil changes or tire rotations, ask the technician to visually inspect the suspension bushings for early signs of cracking or deterioration. Catching a dry, cracked bushing early won't stop the eventual need for replacement, but it allows you to plan the repair before it causes alignment damage or becomes a safety issue. There are no serviceable fluids or filters for the control arms themselves; they are a wear item meant to be replaced when failed.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from HONDA owners:

Success Stories

"One question: has it been worked out to program the ABS module from Forscan or does it still take IDS to do it? So I finally got the last missing part today, which was the correct steering wheel switch pack." — Butch88 (source)

"I'm out of town for work the next couple of weeks so it will be a while before I can complete it. One question: has it been worked out to program the ABS module from Forscan or does it still take IDS to do it?" — Butch88 (source)

Owner Experiences

"Factory Rubicon suspension on unlimited sport? There's a local guy selling a set of Rubicon fox shocks control arms and springs from a 2020 Rubicon JT and claims they only have 2000 miles on them." — djdb05 (2,000 miles) (source)

"There's a local guy selling a set of Rubicon fox shocks control arms and springs from a 2020 Rubicon JT and claims they only have 2000 miles on them. Will these fit my 2019 JL?" — djdb05 (2,000 miles) (source)

"The brake switch is also fully depressed when foot off brake. The cruise main light activates but I get no response when I attempt to set the cruise control speed." — eatcrispycreme2 (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "If one wheel is turning slightly faster than the others, the TCS/VSA unit concludes that tire could have low air pressure, and triggers the warning light." — bobski (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "But I think the main reason was when I was a kid I didn't realize every time you blow a head gasket you should resurface the head so I just kept slapping warped head on top of a new gasket over and over I was young and dumb lol." — Itfits ... Twss (source)

Real Repair Costs

"I'm struggling to find an answer to this question. The bushings on my 2020 Subaru Legacy (Limited) are torn and I was planning on replacing the front lower control arms myself after the mechanic quoted me $1900." — Slyguy10172 (DIY) (source)

"The bushings on my 2020 Subaru Legacy (Limited) are torn and I was planning on replacing the front lower control arms myself after the mechanic quoted me $1900." — Slyguy10172 (DIY) (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace a control arm? A: For a skilled DIYer with all the right tools, replacing one front lower control arm can take 2 to 4 hours for the first side, with less time for the second side once you're familiar with the process. A professional mechanic in a well-equipped shop would typically book 1.5 to 2.5 hours per side.

Q: Can I drive with a bad control arm bushing? A: It is not safe to drive for an extended period. A severely torn bushing can allow the wheel to shift unpredictably, affecting steering and braking control. The resulting misalignment will also cause rapid and dangerous tire wear. You should address it as soon as possible.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Honda Fit? A: Based on the available data, it does not appear to be a widespread, model-specific epidemic. Control arm bushing wear is a universal age-and-mileage-related maintenance issue for all vehicles. A 2020 model is now entering the age (4+ years) and mileage range (often 50k+ miles) where such rubber suspension components begin to show wear.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended? A: This is a high-difficulty DIY job. It requires lifting the vehicle safely, dealing with high-torque bolts, separating a tapered ball joint (which can be stubborn), and precise final torquing. The financial incentive is huge, as one owner noted when faced with a $1900 quote. However, if you lack advanced tools, a torque wrench, or experience with suspension work, the safety risks and the absolute necessity of a perfect alignment afterward make this a job best left to a professional for most people.

Q: Do I need to replace the control arm, or can I just replace the bushing? A: For most modern vehicles, including the 2020 Honda Fit, it is almost always more practical and cost-effective to replace the entire control arm assembly. The bushings are pressed in with significant force at the factory, and pressing them out and new ones in requires specialized hydraulic tools. The new arm comes with a new ball joint and fresh bushings, ensuring everything is correctly aligned and saving many hours of labor.

Q: Will I need an alignment after replacement? A: Yes, a professional front-end alignment is 100% mandatory after replacing a control arm. Installing the new arm will change the wheel's camber and caster angles. Driving without an alignment will result in immediate uneven tire wear and poor handling.