Why Your Honda Fit Keeps Blowing Fuses (And How to Stop It)

How to Fix Fuse Pulling

When an electrical component in your 2020 Honda Fit stops working, the first and often most effective step is to check and potentially replace a fuse. Fuse pulling—the act of removing and inspecting a fuse—is a fundamental diagnostic and repair technique. It’s a simple task that can save you significant time and money, as a single blown fuse can disable everything from your taillights to your power door locks. As one owner shared about a taillight issue: "To swap that fuse they would have charged me a full hour of shop time I’m sure, probably at $150/hr... Had I bought this one new I would have been pretty irate for the run around." This guide will walk you through identifying, diagnosing, and fixing fuse-related problems using real-world experiences from fellow owners.

Symptoms

The symptoms of a blown fuse are directly tied to the circuit it protects. You won't get a generic "check engine" light for a fuse; instead, you'll experience the failure of specific electrical components. The most common symptom is a complete loss of function. For example, if your taillights are out but your brake lights still work, you're likely dealing with a fuse issue for the taillight circuit. One owner described this exact scenario: "Annoying problem because I have no light when I get in the car. I’ve changed the bulb and it worked intermittently." This intermittent function before a complete failure can sometimes point to a fuse on its last legs or a related wiring issue.

Other symptoms can be more dramatic and indicate a serious short circuit. Owners have reported a "burnt" smell, which is a clear sign that a fuse has blown due to an overload, potentially melting its plastic housing or affecting nearby wires. In cases of a major short, you might hear a "ticking" sound from a relay rapidly trying to engage a failed circuit, or even see the battery warning light illuminate if the short is drawing excessive power from the electrical system. A "whipping motion" sensation isn't a typical fuse symptom but could be an erroneous description of a relay clicking rapidly in the fuse box.

It's crucial to understand that fuses are safety devices. Their failure is a symptom of a larger problem—either a faulty component (like a bulb, motor, or switch) drawing too much current or a short in the wiring. Simply replacing a blown fuse without finding the root cause will likely result in the new fuse blowing immediately. As one owner discovered while troubleshooting an A/C issue: "I refilled my system with 134A and my compressor started engaging but it would blow the fuse." This indicates the faulty compressor clutch was the real culprit, not the fuse itself.

Most Likely Cause

The primary cause necessitating fuse pulling in the 2020 Honda Fit is a blown fuse resulting from an electrical overload or short circuit within a specific component's circuit. Fuses are designed to be the weakest link, sacrificing themselves to protect more expensive wiring and electronic modules. The most frequently mentioned fuse in owner discussions is the DRL (Daytime Running Light) fuse, but the principle applies to all circuits, including those for taillights, door locks, and the A/C compressor clutch.

The overload typically originates from a failed component. A classic example is a light bulb that has shorted internally. While changing a bulb is a common first step, if the new bulb works only "intermittently" or not at all, the issue is likely upstream at the fuse. Another common cause is a failing motor, such as the A/C compressor clutch. When the electromagnetic coil inside the clutch begins to fail, its resistance drops, causing it to draw an amperage surge that exceeds the fuse's rating. Moisture intrusion is another enemy, as noted by an owner who mentioned reading "about moisture problems which could be the cause." Water in a taillight housing or connector can create a path to ground, causing a short that blows the fuse protecting that circuit.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a fuse issue is a process of systematic elimination. You will need the owner's manual for your 2020 Honda Fit (to locate the fuse box diagrams), a fuse puller tool (often included in the fuse box lid), a flashlight, and a multimeter for advanced testing. A test light can also be used for simpler power checks. Always start with the vehicle turned off and the key removed from the ignition.

First, identify the failed component. Is it just the left taillight? All interior lights? The power door locks? Consult your owner's manual to find which fuse corresponds to that circuit. The manual has detailed charts showing each fuse's location, amperage rating, and the components it protects. Locate the appropriate fuse box—the primary interior fuse box is usually found under the dashboard on the driver's side, while the under-hood fuse box is in the engine bay.

Visually inspect the suspect fuse. Remove it using the fuse puller. Hold it up to the light and look at the thin metal strip inside the plastic body. A good fuse will have an unbroken strip. A blown fuse will have a visibly melted or severed strip. If you cannot see clearly, use your multimeter. Set it to the continuity setting (which often beeps). Touch a probe to each of the fuse's metal blades. A continuous circuit (a beep) means the fuse is good. No continuity means it's blown. As one owner wisely cautioned when working with fuses that control door locks: "I removed my number 1 fuse today and the tailgate would not open nor would any other door lock or unlock. Make sure you leave the windows down so you don't accidentally get locked out of the vehicle." This highlights the importance of knowing what a fuse controls before you remove it.

If the fuse is blown, do not just replace it and hope for the best. You must try to identify the cause. Disconnect the component that failed (e.g., unplug the taillight connector). Install a new fuse of the correct amperage. Turn on the ignition and activate the circuit. If the fuse holds, the disconnected component is likely the culprit. If the fuse blows immediately with the component disconnected, the problem is in the wiring between the fuse box and the component—a short to ground.

Step-by-Step Fix

Here is a detailed, safety-focused procedure for replacing a blown fuse and addressing the root cause in your 2020 Honda Fit.

Step 1: Gather Tools and Information. Park the vehicle on a level surface, set the parking brake, and turn the ignition OFF. Retrieve your owner's manual and locate the fuse box diagram. Identify the exact fuse for the malfunctioning system (e.g., "TAIL" for taillights, "DRL" for daytime running lights). Gather your new fuse (correct amperage), fuse puller, flashlight, and multimeter.

Step 2: Access the Fuse Box. Open the driver's door. The primary interior fuse box is typically located behind a removable panel on the side of the dashboard, near the door. You may need to gently pry off a cover. The under-hood fuse box is in the engine compartment, usually near the battery, with a clearly marked lid.

Step 3: Remove and Inspect the Fuse. Using the fuse puller, firmly grip the suspect fuse and pull it straight out. Avoid using metal tools like pliers, which can slip and cause damage. Inspect the fuse visually. Compare it to the diagram on the fuse box lid, which often shows what a blown fuse looks like. For confirmation, use your multimeter on the continuity setting. Place a probe on each metal end of the fuse. A beep indicates it's good; silence indicates it's blown.

Step 4: Isolate the Faulty Component. This is the critical step to prevent immediate re-failure. Before installing the new fuse, disconnect the load. For a taillight issue, open the hatch, remove the interior trim panel, and unplug the connector to the faulty light assembly. For an A/C issue, you may need to unplug the compressor clutch connector (consult a service manual for its location).

Step 5: Install the New Fuse. With the component disconnected, insert a new fuse of the identical amperage rating. Never use a fuse with a higher rating, as this can cause wire damage or fire. As one owner reflected on using the right tools for the job: "For me I just can't spend the money on more expensive torque wrenches when I'm only maintaining one car." The principle is the same—use the correct, specified part.

Step 6: Test the Circuit. Turn the ignition to the ON position (but do not start the engine). Activate the circuit (turn on the headlights, press the door lock switch, turn on the A/C). If the fuse does not blow, the disconnected component is almost certainly faulty. If the fuse blows immediately, the short is in the wiring harness, and further professional diagnosis is needed.

Step 7: Replace the Faulty Component. If the fuse held with the component disconnected, you can now replace that component. Install a new taillight bulb or complete assembly, a new A/C compressor clutch, or whatever part is needed. Reconnect the electrical connector securely.

Step 8: Final Test. With the new component installed, test the system again. Turn everything on and operate it through its functions. Verify the fix works consistently, not intermittently. Monitor for a few minutes to ensure no strange smells or sounds develop.

Step 9: Reassemble. Once confirmed working, reinstall any trim panels you removed, close the fuse box cover securely, and you're done. Properly dispose of the old, blown fuse.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Replacement Fuses: Use only the amperage specified in your owner's manual. Common sizes for lighting and accessory circuits are 7.5A, 10A, and 15A. A multi-pack assortment (like 5A-30A) is a wise investment. Honda part numbers are often generic, but a standard ATO or mini-ATO blade fuse from any reputable brand (Bussmann, Littelfuse) is correct.
• Fuse Puller: A small plastic tool designed for the job. One is almost always included in the lid of the under-hood fuse box or stored in the interior fuse box area.
• Multimeter: An essential tool for electrical diagnosis. A basic digital model is perfect for checking continuity and voltage. Brands like Innova or AstroAI offer reliable, affordable options.
• Flashlight or Work Light: Necessary for seeing into dark fuse boxes and under dashboards.
• Trim Removal Tool Set (Optional but Helpful): A set of nylon pry tools makes removing interior trim panels to access light connectors much easier and prevents scratches.
• Owner's Manual: Your most important guide for fuse locations and circuit descriptions.

Real Owner Costs

The cost of fixing a fuse-related issue ranges from almost nothing to several hundred dollars, entirely dependent on whether you just replace the fuse or also need to fix the underlying component.

DIY (Fuse Only): This is the most economical path. A pack of fuses costs between $5 and $10. If the blown fuse was a one-off event (rare) or you've identified and fixed a simple cause like a corroded bulb socket, your total cost is under $10 and your time. As one owner's experience suggests, knowing how to do this yourself avoids a trivial but expensive shop visit.

DIY (Fuse + Component): If you need to replace the failed part causing the overload, costs rise but remain reasonable. A pair of high-quality taillight bulbs might cost $20-$40. A more complex part, like an A/C compressor clutch, can range from $100 to $250 for the part alone. The owner who fixed their A/C went through this process: "I found that the compressor clutch magnet was bad, ended up replacing that... replaced the compressor with a UAC branded unit, refilled and it worked." This repair involved significant parts cost and technical skill.

Professional Repair: Taking the car to a dealership or independent shop introduces labor costs. As quoted earlier, a shop might charge a minimum of one hour of labor just to diagnose and replace a fuse. At dealership rates of $150/hr or more, that's a $150 bill for a $2 part. If a component like a body control module or wiring repair is needed, labor hours multiply quickly. A professional A compressor replacement with recharge could easily exceed $1,000. The key takeaway from owner data is clear: learning to check fuses yourself can save you from a hefty bill for a simple problem.

Prevention

Preventing fuse blows is about maintaining the health of your vehicle's electrical system and addressing small issues before they become big ones.

1. Address Moisture Promptly: As noted by an owner, moisture is a known culprit. If you notice condensation inside a light housing, dry it out and investigate the seal. Ensure weather seals around doors, hatches, and light assemblies are intact.
2. Use Correct Bulbs: When replacing any bulb, use the exact type and wattage specified for your 2020 Honda Fit. A bulb with incorrect wattage can draw too much current.
3. Clean Electrical Connections: Periodically inspect visible electrical connectors for corrosion, especially in the engine bay and rear hatch area. A small amount of dielectric grease on connectors can prevent corrosion.
4. Avoid Aftermarket Electrical Accessories: Poorly installed aftermarket lights, stereos, or chargers are a common source of parasitic draws and short circuits that blow fuses. Have any such work done by a reputable professional using proper fuse taps and wiring.
5. Listen and Smell: Pay attention to new sounds (like a clicking relay) or unusual smells (burning plastic or insulation). These are early warnings of an electrical issue that will soon blow a fuse.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from HONDA owners:

Success Stories

"To swap that fuse they would have charged me a full hour of shop time I’m sure, probably at $150/hr. To be fair, I didn’t buy the car there new, but I have bought another car there once before and they have worked on this one." — Cascadian505 ($150) (source)

"To be fair, I didn’t buy the car there new, but I have bought another car there once before and they have worked on this one. Had I bought this one new I would have been pretty irate for the run around." — Cascadian505 (source)

"I’ve heard this switch can also go bad. 2) I refilled my system with 134A and my compressor started engaging but it would blow the fuse. 3) I found that the compressor clutch magnet was bad, ended up replacing that but after multiple changing out of the compressor clutch plate, I sheared off the stud on the compressor shaft (I know, not my proudest moment, should bought the special clutch holding tool). 4) replaced the compressor with a UAC branded unit, refilled and it worked." — MTLian (source)

Owner Experiences

"I suspect you barely think about the many steps you take when you get in the car because they are ingrained habits. Adding one more button push to that list is pretty small potatoes, especially if the idle stop feature is threat to your life on the Mad Max roads of FL as you suggest." — Drew21 (source)

"I had same problem and it was a fuse. I just wanted to add picture to better show the exact fuse. it's the 10A red fuse marked in red in the top left corner." — salim.fendri (source)

"I’m surprised none of the Freaks on this site have not replied. I called the dealership and they won’t tell me which fuse it is due to liability reasons." — Cascadian505 (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "Quote: Originally Posted by SiXiam I agree you got to be careful with the harbor freight torque wrenches. Most reviews seem to have the opposite problem that you've experienced." — michel54 (source)

⚠️ "If one wheel is turning slightly faster than the others, the TCS/VSA unit concludes that tire could have low air pressure, and triggers the warning light." — bobski (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "I removed my number 1 fuse today and the tailgate would not open nor would any other door lock or unlock. Make sure you leave the windows down so you don't accidentaly get locked out of the vehicle." — Miklav05 (source)

Real Repair Costs

"For me I just can't spend the money on more expensive torque wrenches when I'm only maintaining one car. The one you were talking about pre-set to 18 ft-lbs is $150." — michel54 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to check and replace a fuse? A: For a simple visual inspection and swap, it takes less than 5 minutes once you know which fuse to check. The more time-consuming part is diagnosing why the fuse blew. Isolating a faulty component can take 30 minutes to an hour, depending on its accessibility.

Q: Can I drive with a blown fuse? A: It depends entirely on which circuit is affected. A blown DRL or radio fuse is not a safety hazard and you can drive to address it. However, a blown fuse for brake lights, headlights, or critical engine controls is a major safety issue and illegal. Do not drive the vehicle until it is repaired.

Q: Is fuse blowing a common issue on the 2020 Honda Fit? A: Based on owner discussions, it is a common symptom of other failures, not a inherent flaw of the Fit itself. Electrical components like bulbs, switches, and motors wear out over time in all vehicles. The Fit's fuse boxes are reliable, but the components they protect will eventually fail, causing a fuse to blow.

Q: DIY vs mechanic—what's recommended for fuse issues? A: Checking and replacing a fuse is the ultimate DIY task. Every driver should know how. If you replace a fuse and it blows again immediately, you have a short circuit. Diagnosing a short can be complex and time-consuming, often requiring wiring diagrams and advanced tools. At that point, consulting a professional mechanic is a wise recommendation. As one owner's experience implies, paying a mechanic $150 to replace a fuse is hard to justify, but paying them to trace a gnarly wiring fault might be money well spent.

Q: What if I replace the fuse and the component still doesn't work? A: First, double-check that you used the correct fuse and that it's properly seated. Then, use your multimeter to check for power at the component's connector with the circuit turned on. If there's no power, there could be a break in the wire or a faulty switch/relay upstream. If there is power at the connector, then the new component itself may be faulty or not properly grounded.

Q: Why is it so important to use the correct amperage fuse? A: The fuse is a calibrated safety device. A 10A fuse is designed to melt and break the circuit when the current exceeds 10 amps for a sustained period. If you replace it with a 20A fuse, a wire that can only safely handle 15 amps could overheat, melt its insulation, and cause an electrical fire before the 20A fuse blows. Always match the amperage printed on the fuse you removed or listed in the manual.