Fixing Your Maxima's Brake Lights, Burning Smell, and SLIP Light

How to Fix Brake Pads Issue

For 2020 Nissan Maxima owners, issues with the brake system often manifest through warning lights, unusual smells, and performance changes rather than just pad wear. These symptoms can point to underlying electrical, hydraulic, or mechanical problems that need addressing. As one owner shared while troubleshooting a related electrical issue: "After hooking it all back up, I got 14.48v at the battery on my voltmeter when running. I then turned on the lights, radio, hazards, heater fan and was still getting 14.2V at the battery." This kind of systematic diagnosis is key to resolving complex brake-related warnings.

Symptoms

Owners report a range of symptoms that signal brake system issues beyond simple pad wear. A prominent and concerning symptom is a distinct burning smell, sometimes accompanied by visible smoke. This often occurs under specific driving conditions, such as being stuck in traffic. One owner described the experience: "I have an 05 Max, and recently got a burning smell and smoke billowing out of the passenger side of the front hood when stuck in traffic." This symptom suggests excessive heat generation, which could be related to a sticking caliper, a seized parking brake mechanism, or dragging pads.

Another common cluster of symptoms involves dashboard warning lights. The brake warning light, often accompanied by the battery light, is a frequent trigger for concern. Furthermore, the Traction Control System (TCS) OFF and SLIP lights, along with a general service light, can illuminate. These lights may indicate problems with the vehicle's stability control system, which is directly tied to the brake system's hydraulic control unit. As noted by an owner, these lights can be intermittent: "I did just get a TCS OFF SLIP Light and service light that came on for the first time. That light went off on next crank bur still have the service light."

Physical sensations while driving are also strong indicators. A spongy or soft brake pedal feel often points to air in the brake lines or a problem with the master cylinder. Owners performing maintenance have also encountered mechanical hurdles, such as difficulty during caliper rebuilds. One individual detailed a specific obstacle: "I'm in the middle of rebuilding the rear brake caliper, but I have no idea on how to remove the center push rod from the caliper, FSM says remove ring C, then keyplate, and then push rod, but mine is just stuck inside....." This highlights that symptoms aren't just felt while driving but can appear during repair attempts, indicating corrosion or seized components.

Finally, issues can arise from modifications or part replacements. Installing performance brake kits, for example, can create new problems if components aren't fully compatible. A clear example is when the parking brake cable becomes too short after a caliper is relocated: "The caliper is relocated further away so the cables no longer are able to reach. I assumed id get enough length by loosening the cable from inside the cabin but this still doesnt give enough." This shows that symptoms of a "brake issue" can be directly caused by the repair or upgrade process itself.

Most Likely Cause

Based on owner reports, the most likely primary cause for the constellation of brake-related symptoms is electrical system interference affecting the brake control modules. The frequent co-illumination of the brake warning light and battery light is a critical clue. This duo often points to voltage irregularities within the vehicle's electrical system. The brake system, especially the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) and Traction Control System (TCS), relies on stable voltage to operate its sensors and hydraulic control unit. Fluctuations or drops in system voltage can cause these modules to behave erratically, triggering the SLIP, TCS OFF, and service lights.

Owners performing voltage checks have found evidence supporting this. Stable voltage under load is a good sign, as one owner confirmed: "I then turned on the lights, radio, hazards, heater fan and was still getting 14.2V at the battery." However, the root of such voltage issues often traces back to a failing alternator or poor battery health, which cannot maintain the consistent power required by the sophisticated brake and stability control computers. A failing alternator may produce voltage that is too high, too low, or inconsistent, confusing these sensitive systems and leading to the warning lights and potentially affecting system performance.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing these issues requires a methodical approach, starting with the simplest and most common causes. You will need a digital multimeter capable of measuring DC voltage.

Step 1: Check Battery and Charging System Voltage. This is the first and most critical step. With the engine off, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. A healthy, fully charged battery should read between 12.4 and 12.7 volts. Next, start the engine and measure the voltage again. A properly functioning alternator should produce a charging voltage between 13.8 and 14.8 volts. Crucially, you must test this under load. Turn on all major electrical accessories—headlights, high beams, rear defroster, heater fan on high, and radio. The voltage should remain stable within the 13.8-14.8V range. As an owner demonstrated, "I then turned on the lights, radio, hazards, heater fan and was still getting 14.2V at the battery." If the voltage drops significantly below 13.5V or spikes above 15V under load, the alternator or voltage regulator is likely failing.

Step 2: Scan for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). Even if the "Service Engine Soon" light isn't on, the ABS, TCS, and vehicle stability control systems store their own codes. Use an OBD-II scanner that can read ABS/TCS codes, not just engine codes. This scan can reveal specific faults like wheel speed sensor failures, hydraulic pump motor issues, or internal control module errors that triggered the SLIP and service lights.

Step 3: Physical Brake Inspection. If electrical checks are normal, move to a physical inspection. Jack up the vehicle and safely support it on jack stands. Spin each wheel by hand. Any significant drag or resistance could indicate a sticking caliper or a parking brake that is not fully releasing. Check the brake pads and rotors for uneven wear, which is a classic sign of a caliper problem. Inspect the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir and examine its condition; dark, murky fluid needs replacement.

Step 4: Inspect for Modifications or Recent Work. If symptoms appeared after recent brake work or modifications, inspect that work first. For example, if a big brake kit was installed, verify that all components are seated correctly and that the parking brake cable has proper tension and reach, as a too-short cable can keep the parking brake partially engaged.

Step-by-Step Fix

The fix depends on the root cause identified during diagnosis. Here is a step-by-step guide for the most common scenario: addressing electrical system issues that are disrupting brake control modules.

1. Confirm and Replace the Faulty Component. If your voltage tests confirm a bad alternator or a weak battery, replacement is necessary. Disconnect the negative battery terminal first. For the alternator, remove the serpentine belt, disconnect the electrical connectors and the output wire (usually a large bolt-on cable), then unbolt the alternator from its bracket. Installation is the reverse. When choosing a replacement, opt for a new or high-quality remanufactured unit. As one owner shared after a similar process, "A friend brought me a battery, I put it in and everything went back to normal."

2. Reset the Vehicle's Control Systems. After replacing the battery or alternator, the various computer modules may retain old error codes. To clear these, you can perform a system reset. A common method is to disconnect the negative battery cable for at least 10-15 minutes. Some owners take additional steps: "Reset the whole control system, at battery, and will try her out today." This allows the modules to fully power down and reset.

3. Address Specific Brake Component Issues. If diagnosis points to a mechanical brake problem like a sticking caliper, you'll need to rebuild or replace it. For a rear caliper rebuild, you must carefully disassemble it to service the parking brake mechanism inside. This can be tricky, as an owner found: "FSM says remove ring C, then keyplate, and then push rod, but mine is just stuck inside....." Using proper tools, penetrating oil, and heat can help free seized components. Always replace the seal kit when rebuilding.

4. Bleed the Brake System. Any time you open the hydraulic system (like during a caliper rebuild), or if the pedal feels spongy, you must bleed the brakes. This removes air bubbles. Start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (typically the rear passenger side), then move to the rear driver, front passenger, and front driver. Use a clear tube on the bleeder valve submerged in a bottle of brake fluid, have a helper press the pedal, open the valve to release fluid/air, close it, then have the helper release the pedal. Repeat until no air bubbles are seen.

5. Test Drive and Verify. After all work is complete, reconnect the battery (if disconnected), start the engine, and ensure all warning lights extinguish after the initial bulb check. Test the brake pedal for firmness. Then, take a careful test drive at low speed in a safe area, testing normal brakes and, if applicable, the parking brake. Monitor for any return of smells, lights, or unusual feelings.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Parts:

  • Alternator (OEM or high-quality aftermarket like Denso)
  • Battery (Group 35 or correct size for your model)
  • Brake Caliper Rebuild Kit (Includes seals, dust boots, and possibly a piston)
  • Brake Fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4, check owner's manual)
  • Brake Pads and Rotors (If inspection shows they are worn or damaged)
  • Parking Brake Cable (If modification or corrosion has damaged the original)

• Tools:

  • Digital Multimeter
  • OBD-II Scanner with ABS/TCS capability
  • Basic Socket and Wrench Set (Metric)
  • Jack and Jack Stands
  • Torque Wrench
  • Brake Bleeder Kit (One-man kit or a vacuum bleeder)
  • C-Clamp or Brake Caliper Piston Tool (for compressing pistons)
  • Piston Wind-Back Tool (Specifically for rear calipers with integrated parking brake)
  • Pick Set and Small Screwdrivers (for removing retaining rings and clips)

Real Owner Costs

Costs vary dramatically based on the root cause and whether you perform the work yourself (DIY) or use a professional shop.

Scenario 1: Alternator Replacement.

• DIY Cost: A quality remanufactured alternator costs between $150 and $300. With no other parts needed, your total is just the part cost.
• Shop Cost: A shop will charge for the part (often at a markup) and 1.5-2.5 hours of labor. Total cost typically ranges from $400 to $700.

Scenario 2: Brake Caliper Rebuild or Replacement.

• DIY Cost (Rebuild): A caliper rebuild seal kit is very inexpensive, usually $15 to $30 per wheel. You'll also need brake fluid (~$10).
• DIY Cost (Replace): A new or remanufactured caliper costs between $80 and $200 each, plus brake fluid.
• Shop Cost: For pad/rotor/caliper service on one axle, shops often quote $300 to $800 depending on parts quality and labor rates. Caliper replacement adds significant labor.

Scenario 3: Full Brake Job with Performance Parts. As seen with owners installing big brake kits (BBK), costs escalate. The BBK kit itself can cost $1,000 to $2,500+. Professional installation could add another $300 to $600 in labor. Unexpected issues, like needing custom parking brake cables, add further cost and complexity.

Prevention

Preventing these issues centers on proactive maintenance and careful modification.

1. Regular Electrical System Checks: Once a year, or if you see any warning lights, check your battery voltage and alternator output with a multimeter. Clean battery terminals to prevent corrosion, which can cause voltage drops.
2. Follow Brake Fluid Service Intervals: Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water), which leads to internal corrosion in the brake lines, calipers, and ABS pump. Flush and replace the brake fluid every 2-3 years as recommended by most manufacturers. As one owner noted, fluid was likely replaced during a major brake service: "Not long after I got the car both rear calipers and all brakes were replace and I think they replaced the brake fluid then."
3. Use Quality Parts and Proper Installation: When replacing brake components, avoid the cheapest options. Use quality pads, rotors, and especially calipers. If you are not confident in rebuilding a caliper, purchasing a quality remanufactured unit is often more reliable. During installation, ensure all sliding pins are properly lubricated with silicone brake grease to prevent sticking.
4. Research Modifications Thoroughly: If upgrading your brakes, research the kit extensively. Read forums to see if other 2020 Maxima owners have encountered issues like parking cable length. "Im installing the rear BBK kit made by fastbrakes and ive run into a snag with my parking brake cables." Knowing this ahead of time allows you to source extension cables or brackets before you start.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from NISSAN owners:

Owner Experiences

"Not long after I got the car both rear calipers and all brakes were replace and I think they replaced the brake fluid then. I replaced pads and rotors again a few years ago." — usaf2000 (source)

"Im installing the rear BBK kit made by fastbrakes and ive run into a snag with my parking brake cables. The caliper is relocated further away so the cables no longer are able to reach." — Slamrod (source)

"The caliper is relocated further away so the cables no longer are able to reach. I assumed id get enough length by loosening the cable from inside the cabin but this still doesnt give enough." — Slamrod (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "I then turned on the lights, radio, hazards, heater fan and was still getting 14.2V at the battery. After turning off the car, battery was giving my 13.1V." — maximanut2001 (source)

⚠️ "That light went off on next crank bur still have the service light.Reset the whole control system, at battery, and will try her out today. I wonder, had both back wheel bearings replaced last fall." — Roymg (source)

⚠️ "I did just get a TCS OFF SLIP Light and service light that came on for the first time. That light went off on next crank bur still have the service light.Reset the whole control system, at battery, and will try her out today." — Roymg (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a brake warning light caused by an alternator? A: If you are DIY-savvy, diagnosing with a multimeter takes 15 minutes. Replacing the alternator itself typically takes 1 to 2 hours for a competent home mechanic. A professional shop will usually complete the diagnosis and replacement within 1.5 to 2.5 hours of billed labor.

Q: Can I drive with the TCS/SLIP and brake light on? A: It is not recommended. While your base hydraulic brakes will likely still function, your Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) and Traction/Stability Control may be disabled or operating erratically. This is a significant safety compromise, especially in wet or slippery conditions. Furthermore, if the lights are caused by a failing alternator, you risk the battery dying completely, leaving you stranded.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Maxima? A: While the provided owner data spans multiple generations, the underlying principles are relevant. Electrical issues affecting brake system warnings are a common automotive problem across many brands. The specific integration of the brake, battery, and stability control lights is a typical diagnostic pattern. Problems stemming from modifications, like parking brake cable length, are also common when installing non-OEM performance parts.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for brake caliper issues? A: For simple pad and rotor changes, DIY is very achievable with the right tools and safety precautions (jack stands!). However, for issues involving the caliper piston, parking brake mechanism, or hydraulic system (like a spongy pedal requiring bleeding), the complexity increases significantly. As one owner's struggle shows ("mine is just stuck inside....."), rebuilding a rear caliper can be challenging. If you are not comfortable, having a professional rebuild or replace the caliper is a wise choice to ensure safety and correctness. Diagnosing electrical issues with a multimeter is an excellent DIY skill that can save you significant diagnostic fees.

Q: What should I do if I smell burning from my brakes? A: Stop driving as soon as it is safely possible. A burning smell indicates extreme heat, which can be caused by a stuck caliper or a parking brake that hasn't released. Continuing to drive can warp rotors, boil brake fluid (causing complete brake failure), or even start a fire. Have the vehicle towed to a repair facility if you are not equipped to safely jack it up and investigate the source of the smell immediately.

Q: Will disconnecting the battery reset my brake and slip lights? A: It might, but only temporarily if the underlying cause isn't fixed. Disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes can clear temporary error codes and reset modules, which is why an owner noted, "Reset the whole control system, at battery." However, if the fault is still present (e.g., a bad wheel speed sensor or a failing alternator), the lights will return, usually after a short drive or the next time you start the car.