Why Your Nissan Maxima Steering Clunks (And How to Stop It)

How to Fix Steering Rack Issue

For 2020 Nissan Maxima owners, a steering-related issue often manifests as unsettling noises and vibrations, which can be alarming. While a direct failure of the steering rack itself is less commonly reported by owners, the symptoms often point to problems in the surrounding steering and suspension components. The key is systematic diagnosis, as the fix can range from a simple bolt tightening to a more involved component replacement. As one owner dealing with a similar steering noise shared their diagnostic insight: "If any of the 4 bolts are loose, then ya might have your smoking gun." — Mortos13 (source)

Symptoms

Owners report a range of symptoms that often lead them to suspect a steering rack problem. The most common complaint is a distinct "thunking" or clunking noise when turning the steering wheel. This noise is typically heard at low speeds during parking maneuvers or when making sharp turns. It’s not a constant whine or grind, but a pronounced, metallic thud that correlates directly with steering input.

Another frequent symptom is a general shaking or trembling felt through the steering wheel, often accompanied by a rattling noise when driving over bumps. This suggests that the issue may not be isolated to the steering gear but could involve the connection points between the steering system and the suspension. The shaking might be intermittent or become more pronounced under specific conditions, like during acceleration or on rough road surfaces.

Some owners describe a lugging noise or a deep growl that seems to occur during acceleration, which can be confusing as it feels connected to the engine. However, this can sometimes be related to steering or drivetrain components if the issue is causing a bind or vibration that resonates through the chassis. It’s crucial to note whether the noise changes with steering angle or vehicle speed to help pinpoint the source.

Most Likely Cause

Based on analysis of owner reports, the most likely primary cause for these steering-related symptoms is improperly installed or failing front strut assemblies. This is not a failure of the steering rack's internal gears but a problem in the suspension mounting that directly affects steering feel and sound. When struts are replaced, if the components are not aligned correctly or if parts like the coil spring are not seated properly, they can rotate or shift during steering input.

This misalignment creates the characteristic "thunking" noise. As one owner who experienced this after a strut replacement detailed: "The noise is due to the passenger's side coil spring ROTATING ABOUT IT'S AXIS AS THE WHEEL CHANGES DIRECTION." — reallywildstuff (source). The rotating spring binds and then releases, causing the loud knock. Secondary causes include loose mounting bolts for suspension or subframe components and, in rarer cases, a failing component like a power steering pressure hose or a leak that could affect other parts.

How to Diagnose

Accurate diagnosis requires a methodical approach to isolate the noise. You will need a basic socket set, a floor jack, jack stands, a pry bar, and a helper.

Step 1: Locate the Noise. Have your helper slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while the vehicle is stationary and you listen from outside. Try to determine if the "thunk" is coming from the left, right, or center of the vehicle. Then, perform the same test while driving slowly in a safe, empty parking lot.

Step 2: Visual Inspection. Safely lift the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Remove the front wheels for clear access. Inspect the strut assembly, specifically where the top of the strut mounts to the body in the strut tower. Check that all nuts are tight. Look at the coil spring to see if there are any witness marks indicating it has been rotating against its upper or lower seat.

Step 3: Check for Play. With the wheel off, grip the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions and try to shake it side-to-side. Excessive play could indicate a worn inner or outer tie rod end. Then, grip the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and shake. Play here points to a wheel bearing or a loose strut/knuckle connection. Use a pry bar to gently lever the control arms and check for worn bushings or ball joints.

Step 4: Inspect for Leaks and Loose Components. Trace the power steering lines from the rack back to the pump and reservoir. Look for any signs of fluid leaks, as fluid can damage other components. Critically, check all visible bolts on the suspension subframe, control arms, and steering rack mounts. As the diagnostic tip from an owner suggests, a simple loose bolt can be the culprit.

Step-by-Step Fix

If the diagnosis points to a strut/spring assembly issue, here is the corrective process. Warning: Working on suspension components involves high spring tension. If you are not confident, seek professional help.

Step 1: Gather Parts and Secure Vehicle. Acquire the correct replacement strut assembly or necessary mounting hardware. Park on a level surface, apply the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the affected front wheel before lifting.

Step 2: Remove the Wheel and Access Strut Top. Lift and secure the vehicle. Remove the wheel. Open the hood and locate the strut tower. Remove the plastic cover (if present) to expose the top strut mount nuts (usually three). Do not remove them yet.

Step 3: Disconnect Lower Strut Bolts. From underneath, locate the two large bolts that connect the bottom of the strut assembly to the steering knuckle. Support the knuckle with a jack stand to prevent it from dropping. Remove these two bolts.

Step 4: Remove the Strut Assembly. Now, go back to the top and remove the three strut mount nuts. The entire strut assembly can now be maneuvered out from the wheel well. As one owner shared about their repair process: "I recently installed some struts I purchased from an orger way back in the day...they have KYB struts." — reallywildstuff (source). This highlights the importance of part quality and correct installation.

Step 5: Inspect and Prepare New Assembly. Compare the old and new strut assemblies. Ensure the new coil spring is correctly seated in its upper and lower perches. Transfer any necessary components like the dust boot or bump stop if not pre-assembled.

Step 6: Install New Strut. Maneuver the new assembly into place. Start by guiding the top studs through the holes in the strut tower. Hand-thread the top nuts to hold it. Then, align the bottom of the strut with the steering knuckle and insert the two bolts. Tighten the lower bolts to the manufacturer's specification first.

Step 7: Final Torque and Reassembly. Finally, torque the three top strut mount nuts to spec. Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the proper specification.

Step 8: Post-Installation Check. Get a front-end alignment immediately after replacing a strut assembly. The steering angle sensor may also need recalibration. Test drive the vehicle, listening carefully for the previously heard noise.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Parts:
  • Front Strut Assembly: Complete, pre-assembled unit (spring and strut) is recommended for safety and ease. Brands like KYB, Monroe, or OEM Nissan.
  • Strut Mount Kit: Often includes the mount bearing and hardware. It's advisable to replace this when doing struts.
  • Power Steering Fluid: Nissan-specific ATF or PSF, if a leak is found and repaired.
  • Subframe/Control Arm Bolts: If inspection reveals stretched or damaged bolts.
• Tools:
  • Floor jack and (2) jack stands
  • Socket set (metric, typically 10mm-19mm) and ratchet
  • Torque wrench
  • Pry bar
  • Spring compressors (ONLY if using a strut-only component and reusing the spring - extreme caution required)
  • Wheel chocks

Real Owner Costs

Repair costs vary dramatically based on the root cause and who does the work.

• DIY (Strut Replacement): If the fix is a strut assembly, parts for one corner can range from $150 to $400 for a quality pre-assembled unit. With tools you already own, your total cost is just the part. Adding a professional alignment afterward will cost an additional $80-$120.

• Professional Repair (Strut Replacement): A shop will charge for parts at a markup and labor. Labor for one front strut replacement is typically 1.5-2.0 hours. Total cost at an independent shop can range from $450 to $700 per side. Dealership costs will be higher, potentially $600-$900 per side.

• Professional Diagnosis/Simple Fix: If the issue is simply loose bolts, a shop might charge a one-hour diagnostic fee ($100-$150) plus a minimal labor charge to tighten everything to spec, resulting in a total bill under $200. This underscores the value of a thorough initial inspection.

• Worst-Case Scenario (Steering Rack Replacement): While less common per the data, if the steering rack itself is deemed faulty, this is a major repair. Parts alone can be $500-$1,200 (remanufactured vs. new OEM), and labor can be 4-6 hours. Total professional repair costs can easily exceed $1,500 to $2,500.

Prevention

Preventing steering-related issues revolves around proactive maintenance and careful attention during any related repairs.

1. Professional Installation: If you are not highly experienced, have suspension work like strut replacements performed by a reputable technician. Proper torque and alignment are critical.
2. Regular Inspections: During oil changes or tire rotations, ask the technician to check for loose suspension/steering bolts and inspect rubber bushings for dry rot or cracking.
3. Address Leaks Immediately: Power steering fluid is corrosive. As noted by an owner discussing a different but related issue: "If your power steering is leaking onto the alternator, it's best to take care of that when you remove the current alternator for warranty otherwise it'll just fail again eventually." — chrome91 (source). A leak onto the steering rack or its mounts can cause premature failure.
4. Listen for Early Warnings: Address new clunks or shakes immediately. A minor issue like a loose bolt is cheap to fix; ignoring it can lead to damage of more expensive components.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from NISSAN owners:

Owner Experiences

"If any of the 4 bolts are loose, then ya might have your smoking gun. It could be the butterfly valve in the throttle-body, though that would be rare, but certainly not impossible." — Mortos13 (source)

"It could be the butterfly valve in the throttle-body, though that would be rare, but certainly not impossible. The valve plate could be loose on the spindle." — Mortos13 (source)

"Right now it has power to start then radio & ac work, instrument cluster too. No power windows,seats,or door locks and my key won’t regain connection to lock/unlock or trunk don’t work." — Jtmiller (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to fix a steering "thunk" caused by a bad strut? A: For a skilled DIYer with the right tools and a pre-assembled strut unit, replacing one front strut can take 1.5 to 2.5 hours. A professional shop can typically complete it in 1-1.5 hours of billed labor. Always factor in additional time for an alignment afterward.

Q: Can I drive my car with a clunking noise when turning? A: You should drive with extreme caution and minimize driving. While it might be a simple loose bolt, the noise indicates something in your steering or suspension is not secure. Continued driving can worsen the problem, lead to component failure, and compromise vehicle control and safety. Have it diagnosed as soon as possible.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Maxima? A: Based on owner forum data, specific steering rack failures are not a widespread, model-year-specific epidemic. However, steering-related noises and vibrations are common automotive issues that can affect any vehicle, often stemming from wear in suspension components (struts, mounts, tie rods) or improper installation of aftermarket parts, as the owner quotes demonstrate.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for this repair? A: This is a high-stakes decision. If your diagnosis confidently points to loose bolts, a competent DIYer can safely tighten them to specification with a torque wrench. However, if the repair involves replacing the strut or spring, we strongly recommend a professional unless you have specific experience. The coil spring is under tremendous pressure and can cause serious injury if handled incorrectly. The cost of a professional repair is justified by the safety risk and the guarantee of a proper alignment.

Q: Could the noise be something else, like the throttle body? A: It's possible but less likely for a steering-related "thunk." As one owner speculated on a different drivability issue: "It could be the butterfly valve in the throttle-body, though that would be rare, but certainly not impossible. The valve plate could be loose on the spindle." — Mortos13 (source). A throttle body issue would typically cause poor idle or acceleration problems, not a mechanical clunk tied to wheel movement. Always start diagnosis with the suspension and steering.

Q: Will I need an alignment after fixing this? A: Yes, absolutely. Any time you disconnect a major suspension component like a strut or tie rod, you change the vehicle's geometry. Driving without a proper alignment will cause rapid, uneven tire wear and may affect handling. Always budget for an alignment after completing steering or suspension repairs.