How to Diagnose and Fix a Noisy Wheel Bearing on Your Maxima

How to Fix Wheel Bearing Issue

For 2020 Nissan Maxima owners, a failing wheel bearing is a critical safety issue that manifests through distinct noises and vibrations. While direct reports for the 2020 model are limited in the provided data, insights from Maxima owners across generations point to a consistent failure pattern and its potential to trigger other warning lights. As one owner, Roymg, shared after addressing a similar issue: "I wonder, had both back wheel bearings replaced last fall." This guide synthesizes owner experiences to help you diagnose, address, and prevent wheel bearing failure in your vehicle.

Symptoms

The most common and telling symptom of a failing wheel bearing is a persistent humming, growling, or roaring noise that increases with vehicle speed. This sound is generated by the damaged rollers or races inside the bearing assembly grinding against each other. It typically originates from one corner of the car and may change in pitch or intensity when turning, as turning loads the bearing differently. A worn bearing on the left side might get louder when turning right, and vice versa.

Beyond noise, a severely worn bearing will introduce vibration into the chassis. This vibration is often felt through the steering wheel if a front bearing is failing, or through the seat or floor if a rear bearing is the culprit. As the bearing deteriorates, the play or looseness increases. This can lead to a feeling of instability or a slight "wobble" at highway speeds, as the wheel hub is no longer held securely. Owner reports of steering wheel shaking align with this advanced symptom, though it's crucial to differentiate it from issues like unbalanced tires.

In advanced stages, the failure can impact other vehicle systems. A severely compromised wheel bearing can affect the tone ring or wheel speed sensor, which is integral to the Anti-lock Braking System (ABS), Traction Control System (TCS), and Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC). This can trigger dashboard warning lights. As Roymg experienced: "I did just get a TCS OFF SLIP Light and service light that came on for the first time." While his lights were resolved with a system reset, a faulty wheel bearing sensor signal is a common cause for such alerts.

Most Likely Cause

The primary cause of wheel bearing failure in modern vehicles like the 2020 Nissan Maxima is wear and contamination over time and mileage. Wheel bearings are sealed, lubricated units designed to last the life of the vehicle under normal conditions, but they are not invincible. The most common point of failure is the breakdown of the internal seal. Once this seal is compromised—whether by age, damage from road debris, or improper handling—road contaminants like water, dirt, and salt can infiltrate the bearing grease.

This contamination acts as an abrasive, accelerating wear on the precision-ground bearing races and rollers. The grease also loses its lubricating properties, leading to increased friction, heat, and eventual metal-on-metal contact. This process creates the characteristic growling noise and leads to pitting and spalling (metal flaking) within the bearing. While impact damage from potholes can accelerate failure, the gradual degradation of the seal and subsequent contamination is the most frequent failure mode reported by owners dealing with premature bearing wear.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a bad wheel bearing requires a systematic approach to isolate the noise and check for physical play. You will need a safe, level space like a driveway or garage, a jack, jack stands, and a basic mechanic's tool set. Never rely on a jack alone to support the vehicle. Begin with a driving test. Drive at a consistent speed of 30-50 mph on a smooth road with the windows down. Listen for a humming or roaring noise. Try gently swerving left and right (in a safe, empty area). If the noise diminishes when turning one way and increases when turning the other, it often points to the bearing on the side that gets loaded during the turn (noise increases on a left turn points to the right-side bearing).

Next, perform a static check. Safely lift the suspected corner of the vehicle and support it with a jack stand. With the wheel still on, grip it at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. Try to rock the wheel in and out. Any noticeable clunk or movement suggests excessive bearing play. Then, grip the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and rock it. Movement here is more indicative of tie rod or steering linkage issues. For a more precise test, spin the wheel by hand. Listen and feel for any grinding, roughness, or binding as it rotates. A good bearing will spin smoothly and quietly.

Finally, a visual inspection can provide supporting evidence. Remove the wheel. Look at the back of the brake rotor and the wheel hub area. Signs of excessive grease slung around the area behind the rotor can indicate a failed bearing seal. Also, check for any rust on the bearing hub assembly itself, as corrosion can be a sign of seal failure and water ingress. While you're there, inspect the CV axle boots, as torn boots (a common issue noted by owners like Madison931) can lead to vibration but are a separate problem from the bearing.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing a wheel bearing on a 2020 Nissan Maxima typically involves replacing the entire hub assembly, which is a sealed unit. This is a moderately advanced DIY job requiring specific tools. Always consult the official service manual for torque specifications and procedures specific to your model.

Step 1: Preparation. Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the wheels opposite the one you're working on. Gather all necessary tools and the new hub assembly. Loosen the lug nuts on the target wheel slightly before lifting the vehicle.

Step 2: Secure the Vehicle. Using a floor jack, lift the corner of the vehicle at the designated jack point. Place a quality jack stand under a solid structural point (like the subframe or designated stand point) and lower the jack until the vehicle is securely resting on the stand. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

Step 3: Remove the Brake Caliper and Rotor. Unbolt the brake caliper (usually two bolts on the back). Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a bungee cord or wire hooked to the suspension. Slide the brake rotor off the hub. If it's stuck due to rust, a few taps with a rubber mallet around the center can free it.

Step 4: Disconnect the ABS Sensor. Locate the wheel speed sensor electrical connector mounted near the hub. Carefully disconnect it by pressing the tab and pulling it apart. You may need to remove a small bolt that holds the sensor wire bracket to the knuckle.

Step 5: Remove the Hub Assembly. The hub is held to the steering knuckle by typically four bolts. These bolts are often torqued very high and may be secured with thread-locking compound. You will need a breaker bar or strong impact wrench to remove them. As one owner noted during a CV axle job, "passenger side took the most time," often due to stubborn fasteners. Remove all bolts and carefully pull the hub assembly straight off the studs. If it's seized, a hub puller or careful persuasion with a hammer and punch may be necessary.

Step 6: Install the New Hub Assembly. Clean the mating surface on the steering knuckle. Position the new hub assembly onto the studs. Install the new mounting bolts. It is critical to torque these bolts to the manufacturer's specification in a star pattern. This is not a step to guess on—incorrect torque can lead to catastrophic failure.

Step 7: Reassembly. Reconnect the ABS sensor. Slide the brake rotor back on. Remount the brake caliper and torque its bolts to spec. Install the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.

Step 8: Lower and Final Torque. Carefully lower the vehicle to the ground. Once all four wheels are firmly on the ground, torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the proper specification for your Maxima.

Step 9: Post-Installation Check. Before driving, pump the brake pedal a few times to restore proper brake pad position. Take the car for a cautious test drive. The growling noise should be gone. It is also advisable to have a professional alignment checked, as disturbing the suspension can affect toe settings.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Part: Front or Rear Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly. You must specify which corner (Front Left, Front Right, Rear Left, Rear Right). OEM part numbers vary, but quality aftermarket brands like SKF, Timken, or MOOG are common replacements. Always verify fitment for the 2020 Maxima.
• Tools: Floor jack, at least two jack stands, lug wrench/breaker bar, socket set (metric, including deep sockets), torque wrench (capable of at least 150 ft-lbs), breaker bar or impact wrench for hub bolts, screwdrivers, pry bar, wire brush, penetrating oil (like PB Blaster), safety glasses, and gloves.
• Optional but Helpful: Hub puller/separator kit, rubber mallet, bungee cords for supporting the caliper.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix a wheel bearing varies dramatically between DIY and professional service. Based on general market rates for this common repair:

• DIY Cost: If you perform the labor yourself, the primary cost is the part. A quality aftermarket hub assembly for a 2020 Maxima typically ranges from $150 to $300 per corner. If you need to buy specialty tools like a high-torque torque wrench or hub puller, add another $100-$200 as a one-time investment.
• Professional Repair Cost: At an independent repair shop, you can expect to pay between $400 and $700 per wheel, including parts and labor. Dealership costs are higher, often ranging from $600 to $900 or more per corner due to premium OEM part pricing and higher labor rates. The rear bearings can sometimes be more expensive if they are integrated with the hub and require more labor to access.

As one owner reflected on related repairs, the investment in maintenance is key to longevity: "Current plan is to do maintenance first, than few tasteful mods..." Addressing a worn bearing promptly is a core maintenance item that prevents more extensive damage.

Prevention

While wheel bearings are wear items, you can extend their life significantly. The biggest enemy is impact and contamination. Avoid hitting potholes, curbs, and speed bumps at high speed, as the shock can damage the bearing internals and seals. When driving through deep puddles or flooded roads, the sudden cooling of a hot bearing can draw water past the seals if they are aged; try to avoid this when possible.

During routine brake service or tire rotations, take a moment to visually inspect the wheel hub area. Look for any signs of grease leakage around the center of the hub behind the rotor. Listen for any unusual noises during your regular driving. Catching a bearing early in its failure, when it's just starting to hum, is far better than waiting until it is roaring and causing vibration. Regular washing, especially in winter to remove road salt, can help reduce corrosion that might compromise external components.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from NISSAN owners:

Owner Experiences

"Quote: Originally Posted by Addison Hey all. today I took on the task of replacing my cv axles. Got them in I just a few hours, passenger side took the most time." — Madison931 (source)

"Got them in I just a few hours, passenger side took the most time. My boots were torn to shreds on both sides, and steering wheel was wobbling/shaking and increased with speed." — Madison931 (source)

"My boots were torn to shreds on both sides, and steering wheel was wobbling/shaking and increased with speed. After replacing both, I topped off the transmission fluid and took it for a test drive." — Addison (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "That light went off on next crank bur still have the service light.Reset the whole control system, at battery, and will try her out today. I wonder, had both back wheel bearings replaced last fall." — Roymg (source)

⚠️ "I did just get a TCS OFF SLIP Light and service light that came on for the first time. That light went off on next crank bur still have the service light.Reset the whole control system, at battery, and will try her out today." — Roymg (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace a wheel bearing? For an experienced DIYer with the right tools, replacing one hub assembly can take 2 to 4 hours, depending on rust and bolt accessibility. A professional mechanic at a shop can typically complete the job in 1.5 to 2.5 hours per wheel.

Q: Can I drive with a noisy wheel bearing? You should minimize driving and avoid highway speeds. A noisy bearing is in a state of active failure. If it seizes completely, it can lock the wheel or cause the wheel to separate from the vehicle, leading to a loss of control. It is a serious safety risk that should be addressed promptly.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Maxima? Wheel bearing failure is not model-specific but a common wear item on all modern vehicles. They typically last between 85,000 to 150,000 miles, but driving conditions are the largest factor. Harsh climates with road salt and poor road surfaces will lead to earlier failures.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended? This repair is at the higher end of intermediate DIY difficulty. The challenges are dealing with high-torque, often rusted bolts, and the critical importance of correct final torque on the new hub. If you are comfortable with suspension work, have a strong torque wrench, and can safely support the vehicle, DIY can save significant money. If you lack these tools, confidence, or a suitable workspace, having a professional perform the repair is the safer and more reliable choice.

Q: Why did my traction control light come on with a bad bearing? The wheel bearing hub assembly contains a magnetic tone ring that the ABS/ wheel speed sensor reads. If the bearing fails, it can damage this tone ring or cause the sensor to malfunction, sending incorrect wheel speed data to the car's computer. This can trigger the TCS, ABS, and VDC warning lights, as the system cannot function properly with faulty data.

Q: Could the noise be something else? Yes. A similar humming noise can come from worn or improperly inflated tires, especially certain tread patterns. A rhythmic "thunking" might be a CV joint (especially when turning), as one owner described: "I soon began to notice a 'thunking' noise when turning the steering wheel." Vibration is more commonly tied to tire balance or a bent rim. Proper diagnosis as outlined above is key to identifying the true source.