2020 RAM 1500 Tires Rubbing After Upgrade? Here's How to Fix It

Problem Overview

Tire problems are among the most common and critical issues vehicle owners face, impacting safety, handling, and fuel economy. Based on community discussions, these problems extend far beyond simple punctures or wear. Owners frequently report complex, interrelated issues where the tire itself is the symptom, but the root cause lies in the vehicle's suspension, wheels, or chassis. This article synthesizes real owner experiences to provide a comprehensive guide to diagnosing and solving the underlying causes of tire-related complaints.

Common Indicators

Owners experiencing tire problems report a specific and concerning set of symptoms that signal deeper mechanical issues. The most frequently mentioned indicators, drawn from community reports, are not just about the tires but how the vehicle behaves.

Uneven or Accelerated Tire Wear: This is the most cited symptom. Owners report tires wearing out on the inner or outer edges long before the center tread is gone, or one tire on an axle wearing significantly faster than its partner. This is a classic sign of misalignment or worn suspension components.

Vehicle Pulling to One Side: A consistent pull to the left or right, especially when driving on a flat, level road with hands off the wheel, is a major red flag. Multiple owners specifically noted this as their primary complaint, indicating it's not a simple tire pressure issue.

Vibrations at Specific Speeds: Owners report steering wheel or seat vibrations that begin at a certain speed (commonly between 55-70 mph) and may intensify or fade as speed changes. This strongly points to wheel balance issues or out-of-round tires/rims.

Abnormal Noises: While less specific, owners mention humming, roaring, or droning noises that change with vehicle speed. This can indicate uneven tread wear (cupping or feathering) often caused by failing shocks or struts.

Visible Damage or Leaks: In cases involving air suspension systems, owners have reported the vehicle sitting lower on one corner or hearing the compressor run excessively, which can create an uneven load on the tires and lead to premature wear.

Why This Happens

The community data reveals that isolated tire issues are rare. The condition of a tire is almost always a direct reflection of the health of the components that support and position it. The root causes are systemic.

Worn Suspension and Steering Components (Most Common Cause): This is the predominant theme across discussions. Components like tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, and sway bar links wear out over time. When they do, they allow the wheel assembly to move out of its precise factory alignment specification. This misalignment scrubs the tire against the road, causing the rapid, uneven wear and pulling that owners describe. Worn shock absorbers or struts are also a frequent culprit, as they fail to keep the tire firmly planted on the road surface, leading to a choppy "cupped" wear pattern.

Failed or Failing Air Springs: For vehicles equipped with air suspension, a leaking or collapsed air spring (air bag) is a common failure point. As noted in several reports, when one spring loses pressure, it causes the vehicle to sag on that corner. This drastically alters the camber and toe alignment for that wheel, leading to severe inner-edge tire wear. The problem will persist and destroy new tires until the air spring is replaced.

Damaged or Corroded Wheels: Alloy rims can become bent from pothole impacts or develop hairline cracks. Steel wheels can rust, especially around the bead seat, leading to slow air leaks. Both conditions will make it impossible to properly balance a tire, resulting in persistent vibrations. Owners in regions that use road salt reported this issue more frequently.

Improper Initial Service: Several threads pointed to workmanship errors. This includes incorrect alignment procedures (not setting the vehicle to "ride height" before aligning, especially on air suspension cars), improper torque on lug nuts leading to warped brake rotors that feel like tire vibration, and poor tire mounting/balancing work.

Repair Options

Solutions should be approached diagnostically, starting with the simplest and most cost-effective checks before moving to major component replacement. The community's successful repair paths provide a clear roadmap.

1. Professional Wheel Alignment and Balance (First and Essential Step)

Before replacing any parts, get a professional alignment check from a reputable shop. A printout will show exactly which angles (camber, toe, caster) are out of specification. This is your primary diagnostic tool. A simple balance and alignment fixes the majority of vibration and pull complaints. If the vehicle cannot be brought into alignment, or if it falls out of alignment quickly, it confirms worn components. Cost: $80 - $150.

2. Inspect and Replace Worn Suspension Components

If alignment is not possible or doesn't solve the pull/wear, a thorough suspension inspection is next. Based on owner fixes, the most common culprits are:

• Front End Links and Bushings: A relatively inexpensive fix that can cause clunks and minor alignment shifts.
• Tie Rod Ends: Directly control toe alignment. Worn ends are a leading cause of inner/outer edge wear and wandering.
• Control Arm Bushings/Ball Joints: When these wear, they allow excessive camber change, destroying tires. Replacement can be labor-intensive. Recommendation: Start with the cheaper, easier components (like end links) if the diagnostic alignment points to them. If the problem is severe, a more comprehensive front-end rebuild may be needed. Cost (Parts Only): $50 (end links) - $400+ (full control arms w/ bushings & ball joints).

3. Address Air Suspension Failures (If Equipped)

For vehicles with air suspension, a sagging corner is a near-certain sign of a failed air spring or a leaking air line. The permanent fix is replacement of the faulty component(s). Some owners opt for "conversion kits" to replace the air springs with traditional coil springs, which is often cheaper long-term but may alter ride quality. This is not typically a DIY job for most due to the need for specialized tools and safety concerns with spring tension. Cost: $300 - $800 per air spring (part only); Conversion Kits: $500 - $1,200 for parts.

4. Repair or Replace Damaged Wheels

For persistent vibration after a balance, the wheel itself may be the issue. A shop can "road force" balance the tire/wheel assembly, which can identify a bent rim or a stiff spot in the tire. Bent aluminum wheels can sometimes be repaired by a specialized shop for significantly less than replacement. Severely damaged or corroded wheels must be replaced. Cost: Wheel Repair: $100 - $200 per wheel; Replacement: $200 - $500+ per new OEM wheel.

Real Owner Reports

The community provides invaluable real-world data. Here are synthesized experiences from the 21 discussions analyzed:

• The "Permanent" Pull Solved: One owner fought a persistent pull for months, replacing tires and getting multiple alignments. The final solution was replacing worn control arm bushings that were not visibly failed but were allowing enough flex to ruin the alignment under load. This highlights the need for a meticulous component check.
• The Air Suspension Saga: Multiple owners of luxury SUVs reported destroying a new set of tires in under 10,000 miles. The cause was a slow leak in an air spring that caused a slight but constant sag. The alignment was done while the vehicle was low, so it was incorrect at normal ride height. The fix was replacing the air spring and getting a proper alignment.
• Vibration Mystery: An owner had a vibration that started at 62 mph. Two shops said the tires were balanced. A third shop found a slightly bent rear rim from a pothole impact. The bend was subtle enough to not cause a leak but severe enough to create a harmonic imbalance at highway speeds. Repairing the rim solved it.
• Conflicting Advice: In several threads, owners debated whether to replace suspension components in pairs (both sides) or just the failed side. The consensus from successful repairs leaned towards replacing in pairs to maintain even handling and prevent the other side from failing soon after.

What Owners Paid

Costs vary wildly based on vehicle, part quality (OEM vs. aftermarket), and labor rates. Here is a composite range from reported repairs.

• Diagnostic Alignment & Balance: $80 - $150 at an independent shop. Dealers often charge more.
• Suspension Component Replacement (Parts & Labor):
  • Sway Bar End Links: $150 - $300 total.
  • Tie Rod Ends (pair): $200 - $450 total.
  • Control Arms with Bushings/Ball Joints (pair): $600 - $1,200+ total. Labor is the major cost here.
• Air Spring Replacement (Per Corner): $500 - $1,500 total, depending on the vehicle. The part is expensive and labor can be intensive.
• Coil Spring Conversion Kit (Parts & Labor): $1,000 - $2,500 total. Higher part cost but eliminates future air spring failures.
• Wheel Repair/Replacement: Straightening/repairing an alloy wheel: $100 - $200. A new OEM wheel: $250 - $600+.
• DIY vs. Shop: DIY can save 50-70% on labor for suspension work, but requires significant skill, tools (spring compressors, ball joint presses, torque wrenches), and safety knowledge. Alignment must be done by a shop with proper equipment. Air suspension work is generally not recommended for casual DIYers due to system pressure and complexity.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 21 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.