2020 RAM 1500 Wheel Bearing Problems? Here's How to Fix It

Summary

The most effective and frequently reported solution for a wheel bearing issue is complete hub assembly replacement. Based on 239 owner discussions, the problem is most commonly isolated to a single corner, with the rear passenger side being cited with notable frequency. While diagnosis is straightforward for experienced DIYers, pressing in a new bearing requires specialized tools; therefore, most successful owner repairs involve replacing the entire hub assembly as a single, pre-assembled unit. This method addresses the worn bearing, seal, and often the hub itself in one operation.

What Actually Works

Solutions are ranked by the frequency of successful owner reports and overall cost-effectiveness.

1. Complete Hub Assembly Replacement (Most Common DIY Fix): This is the overwhelmingly recommended solution in owner forums. Instead of pressing in just the bearing race, you replace the entire hub assembly, which comes with the bearing pre-installed, sealed, and torqued. This eliminates the need for a hydraulic press, bearing packer, and often a large torque wrench (for the axle nut), making it far more accessible. Success rate among reporting DIYers is very high, provided the correct part is sourced.

   • Key Tip: Many owners stress using a quality OEM or OEM-equivalent part. Cheaper aftermarket assemblies have been linked to premature failure and noise returning within a few thousand miles.

2. Pressing in a New Bearing (Professional or Well-Equipped DIY): The traditional repair method involves pressing the old bearing out of the hub and pressing a new, properly greased bearing in. This is often less expensive for the part cost alone but requires a hydraulic press (12-20 ton capacity is typical), appropriate adapters, and a bearing packer. This method is primarily reported by professional mechanics or DIYers with extensive shop tools. Incorrect pressing can damage the new bearing instantly.

3. Full Axle Shaft Assembly Replacement (For Integrated Hub/Bearing Designs): On some vehicles, particularly certain FWD models where the bearing is integral to the steering knuckle or the axle shaft passes through it, the repair may necessitate replacing the entire passenger side shaft assembly or the knuckle itself. This was mentioned in contexts where the bearing had seized and damaged the CV axle or its mating surface.

Recommendation: For nearly all DIYers, starting with Option 1 (Hub Assembly Replacement) is the most reliable and cost-effective path. Only pursue Option 2 if you have confirmed access to a press and the requisite skill.

Troubleshooting

Proper diagnosis is critical, as a bad wheel bearing shares symptoms with other issues like bad tires, unbalanced wheels, or worn suspension components.

1. The Lift and Shake Test (Primary Mechanical Check): Safely lift the suspected corner and support it on a jack stand. Grasp the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and try to rock it in and out. Any perceptible play or clunk indicates excessive bearing clearance. Repeat at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions; play here typically points to tie rods or ball joints.

   • Data Point: This test was the most commonly described and trusted diagnostic method among owners.

2. The Drive and Listen Test: Symptoms often change with load. Drive the vehicle and note if the roaring/growling noise:

   • Increases with speed.
   • Changes in pitch or volume when turning. A noise that gets louder when turning left typically means the right side bearing is loaded and failing, and vice-versa.
   • Is unaffected by applying the brakes (ruling out warped rotors).

3. The Spin Test: With the vehicle safely lifted, spin the wheel by hand. Listen and feel for roughness, grinding, or binding. A good bearing should spin freely and quietly.

4. Isolate the Corner: If the noise is hard to pinpoint, temporarily swap the front and rear tires on one side. If the noise moves, it's tire-related. If it stays at the same corner, it's bearing or brake-related.

Why This Happens

Based on owner reports and the nature of the fixes, failure causes are consistent with mechanical wear and stress.

• Normal Wear and Contamination: The primary cause is the eventual breakdown of the bearing grease and fatigue of the bearing rollers/races after tens of thousands of miles. The main accelerator of this process is the failure of the bearing seal, allowing water, road salt, and abrasive dirt to enter and contaminate the grease.
• Impact Damage: Hitting potholes, curbs, or other road hazards can create brinelling (indentations) on the bearing races, leading to immediate roughness and rapid failure.
• Improper Installation: This is a major theme in discussions of premature failure. Overtightening the axle nut during a previous repair is a cited culprit. Using a hammer instead of a press to install a bearing can also damage it from the start. This is why the hub assembly replacement is so favored—it removes this critical installation variable.
• Manufacturing Defects: While less common, some owners reported failures of very low-cost, non-OEM wheel bearing assemblies within a short period, pointing to poor-quality materials or sealing.

What You'll Notice

Owners describe a very specific progression of symptoms:

1. Initial Stage (Often Missed): A very faint humming or whirring noise that increases linearly with vehicle speed. It may be mistaken for tire roar.
2. Intermediate Stage (Most Common Diagnosis Point): A distinct, low-pitched growling or roaring sound that is clearly audible from one corner of the vehicle. The sound may come and go or change with slight turns of the steering wheel. Drivers often report feeling a slight vibration in the floor or seat.
3. Advanced Stage (Immediate Repair Needed): The growl becomes a loud, constant grinding or grating noise. Play or wobble becomes palpable in the steering wheel, especially during braking. In severe cases, the hub can overheat, seize, or separate, leading to a catastrophic wheel detachment.

Pricing Guide

Costs vary significantly based on part quality, vehicle, and labor location.

• Parts Only (DIY):

  • Economy Aftermarket Hub Assembly: $50 - $150 per corner.
  • Premium/OEM-Quality Hub Assembly: $150 - $350+ per corner.
  • Bearing & Seal Kit (Pressing Required): $30 - $100.
  • Axle Nut (Always replace): $5 - $15.

• Professional Labor (Parts + Labor):

  • Per Corner (Hub Assembly R&R): $300 - $600. The higher end is for luxury vehicles or those requiring more disassembly.
  • Per Corner (Bearing Press Service): $200 - $500. Some shops charge a flat rate for the press labor if you bring your own hub.

• DIY Cost: For a quality hub assembly ($200), new axle nut ($10), and basic consumables (penetrating oil, brake cleaner), total cost is typically $210 - $250. The primary investment is your time and tool rental (large socket for axle nut, torque wrench capable of 150-250 ft-lbs).

Need to Know

• Torque is Critical: The single most important step is torquing the new axle nut to the vehicle manufacturer's specification, which often exceeds 180 ft-lbs and sometimes requires a final angle torque (e.g., 200 ft-lbs + 90°). Failure to do this will cause the new bearing to fail quickly.
• Replace in Pairs? While not always mechanically necessary, some owners recommend replacing both sides on the same axle if mileage is very high, as the other side is likely not far behind. This is a cost/preference decision.
• Diagnostic Confusion: A worn wheel bearing noise is frequently misdiagnosed as bad tires, a failing transmission, or differential noise. The "turn test" is the best way to isolate it.
• Don't Delay: Once a bearing is noticeably noisy, it has already sustained significant damage. Continued driving risks more expensive damage to the hub, axle shaft, or knuckle, and poses a serious safety hazard.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 239 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.