How to Fix Common 2020 WRX Brake Issues and Avoid Snapped Wheel Studs

How to Fix Brake Pads Issue

For 2020 Subaru WRX owners, addressing brake-related concerns often involves more than just swapping pads. While the term "brake pads issue" can be vague, owner discussions reveal a cluster of related problems—from wheel hardware failures during pad changes to the critical importance of proper installation techniques and component replacement philosophy. A holistic approach to your vehicle's braking system is key. As one owner, basement-thug, emphasized regarding proper repair practices: "It's a cheaper poor mans solution, it's foolish if you care about doing it right. The labor involved to do it again dictates doing it right the first time, which is to replace a dual mass flywheel and always replace rotors and pads when doing brakes." This mindset is directly applicable to brake service.

Symptoms

Owners don't typically report simple "wear" as the primary issue. Instead, problems manifest during maintenance or as a consequence of other work. A common and frustrating symptom is encountering damaged wheel studs when removing wheels for brake inspection or pad replacement. This can halt a DIY project in its tracks and lead to further complications if not addressed correctly. The act of removing a stubborn wheel can be the catalyst, revealing underlying weaknesses or previous poor workmanship.

Another symptom relates to the integration of lighting and body panels when accessing certain areas of the vehicle for any reason, including brake line checks or suspension work near the wheels. Owners report challenges with interior trim panels that house wiring, such as for the third brake light. Improper handling during removal can create new issues. As tblax44 shared from their experience: "Be careful of the brake light as the harness goes through to the trunk area, it's easy to get that caught when removing the large panel." This highlights how interconnected systems are; a simple panel removal for access can affect brake lighting.

Furthermore, symptoms can include improper component behavior after service, such as lighting malfunctions that owners sometimes discover when working on rear-end components. For instance, an owner installing a new light assembly might find: "I wanted solid reverse, but for some reason it just flickers very bad. The other three settings (solid/strobing brake, strobing reverse) are fine," as noted by Gertrude1976. While not a direct pad issue, it underscores the electrical intricacies often encountered in the same operational space as the braking system, where wiring for lights and sensors is present.

Most Likely Cause

The most likely cause of the broader "brake pads issue" scenario, based on owner reports, is improper or incomplete maintenance procedures during brake-related service. This is not a single faulty part but a chain of events. It often begins with the use of incorrect techniques or tools during wheel removal (leading to snapped studs), is compounded by opting for shortcuts instead of comprehensive parts replacement (like resurfacing rotors vs. replacing them), and is exacerbated by a lack of care when dealing with adjacent components like wiring harnesses and trim panels. The root cause is a procedural failure, not a spontaneous mechanical defect with the pads themselves. Owners point to the philosophy of doing a job completely as the antidote.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing these intertwined issues requires a methodical inspection before, during, and after any brake service. Start with a visual and physical check of the wheel studs and lug nuts. Before attempting to remove a wheel for the first time in a while, inspect for any cross-threading or rust. Use a proper breaker bar and a six-point socket, not an impact gun set to maximum torque, to initially loosen the lugs. If a stud snaps, you've immediately diagnosed a problem of over-torque, corrosion, or prior damage.

Once the wheel is off, diagnosis extends to the brake components themselves. Measure rotor thickness and check for scoring, warping, or heavy rust. The owner data strongly suggests that rotors should be replaced with new pads, not resurfaced. As the quote from basement-thug implies, attempting to save the old rotors is a false economy. Also, inspect the brake pad wear sensor (if equipped) and the condition of the brake fluid reservoir. Check for any leaks at the caliper pistons or brake lines, especially if you notice a pulling sensation while braking.

Finally, diagnose any ancillary issues. If you've removed interior trim to run wires or access the rear shelf, test all brake lights, turn signals, and reverse lights before reassembling everything completely. As Gertrude1976's experience shows, a flickering reverse light could indicate a poor connection or compatibility issue with an aftermarket part. A simple multimeter can check for consistent voltage at the light connector.

Step-by-Step Fix

Here is a comprehensive guide to addressing brake service on your WRX, incorporating the hard-learned lessons from other owners.

1. Gather Intelligence and Prepare: Read through service manuals or trusted forums for your specific model year. Note torque specs for lug nuts (typically 89-118 ft-lbs for the WRX) and caliper bracket bolts. Acquire all necessary parts before starting (see Parts list below).

2. Safe Vehicle Setup: Park on a level, solid surface. Engage the parking brake. For the front wheels, chock the rear wheels. For the rear, you will need to release the parking brake and chock the front wheels. Loosen the lug nuts slightly while the car is still on the ground.

3. Jack and Support: Use the factory-recommended jack points. Never rely on the jack alone; place a quality jack stand under a solid subframe point and lower the vehicle onto it. Then remove the lug nuts and wheel.

4. Remove Caliper and Inspect: Using the correct size socket (often 14mm or 17mm), remove the two bolts that hold the brake caliper to its bracket. Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. Do not let it hang by the brake hose! Suspend it from the suspension with a bungee cord or wire. At this point, inspect the rotor thoroughly. Owner advice is clear: replace it with a new one. As one owner shared regarding similar critical components: "The labor involved to do it again dictates doing it right the first time."

5. Compress Caliper Piston: Before installing new, thicker pads, you must retract the caliper piston. Use a large C-clamp or a dedicated piston tool. Place the old brake pad against the piston and slowly tighten the clamp until the piston is fully recessed. For rear calipers with an integrated parking brake, you may need a tool that twists the piston while pressing it in.

6. Install New Components: Remove the old pads from the bracket. Install the new rotors, cleaning them with brake cleaner to remove protective oil. Install the new pads into the bracket, often with clips or shims. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to the pad ears and any sliding contact points.

7. Reassemble and Torque: Place the caliper back over the new rotor and pad assembly. Hand-thread the caliper bolts, then torque them to specification (often 70-80 ft-lbs). Reinstall the wheel, hand-tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern, lower the vehicle, and then torque the lug nuts to the final spec in a star pattern.

8. Bleed the Brakes (If Needed): If the brake fluid is old (over 2 years) or if you opened the system, bleed the brakes starting from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder (typically passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front). This ensures no air is trapped in the lines.

9. Test and Check Ancillary Systems: Before driving, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. Start the car and test the pedal again. Conduct a low-speed test in a safe area. Also, verify any lights or panels you may have touched. Remember the warning: "Be careful of the brake light as the harness goes through to the trunk area, it's easy to get that caught," as tblax44 noted.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Parts: New brake pads (e.g., EBC Redstuff pads were mentioned by owners). New brake rotors (front and rear, slotted or OEM-style). High-temperature brake grease. Brake cleaner spray. Brake fluid (DOT 4).
• Tools: Floor jack and at least two jack stands. Lug wrench/breaker bar and correct socket (19mm or 21mm). 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet and socket set (including sizes for caliper bolts). Torque wrench. C-clamp or piston compression tool (twist-type for rear if applicable). Bungee cord or wire to hang caliper. Gloves and safety glasses.

Real Owner Costs

Costs vary dramatically between DIY and professional service, and owner experiences highlight the price of shortcuts.

• DIY (Parts-Only): A quality set of aftermarket pads like EBC Redstuff can range from $150-$300 per axle. New OEM-spec rotors are roughly $100-$200 each. With fluids and grease, a full front-and-rear DIY job using mid-tier parts can land between $600-$1,000 in parts. The labor cost is your time, but you avoid shop rates.

• Professional Service: A dealership or independent shop will charge significantly more. For pad and rotor replacement on all four corners, expect quotes from $1,200 to over $2,000, depending on parts selected and labor rates ($100-$150/hour). This is where the owner philosophy of "do it right the first time" pays off—paying for a comprehensive job once is cheaper than paying for a pad-slapping job now and a rotor replacement later.

• The Cost of Getting it Wrong: Owner awoodby shared a costly lesson: "Come winter I find that the shop that fixed the 2... Crossthreaded 3 more!!!!!" Fixing multiple broken or cross-threaded wheel studs requires replacing the studs and potentially the hub, which a shop might charge $200-$400 for, on top of the original brake service cost. This turns a routine job into an expensive repair.

Prevention

Preventing "brake pads issues" is about adopting a proactive and thorough maintenance mindset. Always use a torque wrench for lug nuts and caliper bolts—never guess. When performing brake service, plan to replace pads and rotors as a matched set. Inspect wheel studs regularly for thread damage and replace any that are questionable immediately. When working near wiring, take photos before disconnecting and secure harnesses out of the way. Furthermore, adopt a driving style that reduces extreme brake wear. As owner iamflyipilot advised for general vehicle preservation: "Start slowing down 2-3x sooner than you think you need to. I also like to ‘stay ahead of the car’ mentality." This smooth, anticipatory driving significantly extends the life of all braking components.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from SUBARU owners:

Success Stories

"Hell, i had 2 on my car, being lazy i took it to the corner shop to do and swap my summer wheels on. Come winter I find that the shop that fixed the 2..." — awoodby (source)

"Come winter I find that the shop that fixed the 2... Crossthreaded 3 more!!!!!" — awoodby (source)

Owner Experiences

"Ended up with the OLM OG Plus Final Edition, and cut the DRL cable so it's effectively invisible unless braking. I wanted solid reverse, but for some reason it just flickers very bad." — Gertrude1976 (source)

"I wanted solid reverse, but for some reason it just flickers very bad. The other three settings (solid/strobing brake, strobing reverse) are fine." — Gertrude1976 (source)

"I also like to “stay ahead of the car” mentality. Don’t let the car bring you somewhere your brain didn’t arrive at minutes before." — iamflyipilot (source)

Lessons Learned

⚠️ "It's just held in place by plastic clips, no fasteners. Be careful of the brake light as the harness goes through to the trunk area, it's easy to get that caught when removing the large panel." — tblax44 (source)

Pro Tips from Owners

💡 "Drop the seats and remove the c-pillar panels, then you should be able to pry up and pop the panel off. It's just held in place by plastic clips, no fasteners." — tblax44 (source)

💡 "Upgrade your radiator, and intercooler other wise make sure you do cool down laps. Upgrade brake fluid and pads and you should be good" — jredmartinz (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace brake pads and rotors on all four corners? A: For a seasoned DIYer with all tools and parts ready, plan for a full day (4-8 hours). This includes time for setup, careful disassembly/reassembly, cleaning, and a proper brake bleed. Rushing is how studs get snapped and clips get forgotten. A professional shop will typically book 3-5 hours of labor.

Q: Can I drive with worn pads or a snapped wheel stud? A: Driving with severely worn pads is dangerous and will damage your rotors. A single snapped wheel stud is a critical safety issue. The remaining studs are under increased stress. You should replace it immediately and should not drive at highway speeds or for long distances. As the owner who snapped studs found, it can lead to a cascade of problems.

Q: Is it really necessary to replace the rotors every time I change pads? A: Based on the strong consensus from experienced WRX owners in the data, yes. Resurfacing ("turning") rotors is discouraged, especially on performance-oriented vehicles. Modern rotors are often designed with less material and wear quickly. As the owner quote stated, doing the job right the first time with new rotors prevents having to re-do the labor-intensive job prematurely when warping or vibration occurs.

Q: DIY vs mechanic – what's recommended for a brake job on this car? A: If you are mechanically inclined, have the proper tools (especially a torque wrench), and follow detailed guides, a brake job is a very achievable DIY project. It offers significant cost savings. However, if you are unsure about steps like compressing the piston, bleeding the system correctly, or diagnosing related issues, paying a reputable mechanic is wise. The cost of a mistake—like improper bleeding leading to brake failure—is far higher than the labor cost.

Q: My reverse light flickers after I worked near the rear brakes. What's wrong? A: This is likely an electrical connection issue, not a brake problem. You may have disturbed the wiring harness for the rear lights when removing interior trim. Check the connection at the light assembly itself. As Gertrude1976 found, some aftermarket lights may have compatibility issues. Ensure the connector is fully seated and the pins are not bent.

Q: What’s the biggest mistake to avoid during a brake job? A: Beyond incorrect torque, the biggest mistake is not being prepared for complications, like a seized caliper bolt or a stuck rotor. Forcing parts can lead to breakage. Using penetrating oil ahead of time, having a breaker bar, and knowing when to apply heat (carefully) are key. Also, never push old brake fluid back into the ABS module by compressing a piston without opening the bleeder valve—this can contaminate the entire system.