2020 Subaru WRX Wheel Studs Snapping? Here's How to Fix It

Summary

The most common "wheels problem" reported by owners is not mechanical but aesthetic: the finish on factory alloy wheels peeling, flaking, or corroding. Based on 16 owner discussions, the primary solution is a professional wheel refinishing, which involves stripping the old finish and applying a new powder coat or paint. For a temporary fix or minor damage, touch-up paint and clear coat can be used. The issue is widespread and is primarily caused by environmental factors, road salt, and inherent weaknesses in the original factory finish.

Step-by-Step Solutions

Solutions are ranked from most effective/permanent to least expensive/temporary.

1. Professional Wheel Refinishing (Powder Coating)

This is the most frequently recommended and permanent solution cited in discussions. It involves a shop completely stripping the wheel to bare metal, repairing any curb damage, and applying a durable powder coat finish.

• Process: Remove tire → media blast/chemically strip wheel → repair imperfections → apply powder coat → bake in oven → remount and balance tire.
• Success Rate: Near 100% for restoring appearance and providing long-term protection when done correctly. This is considered a definitive fix.
• Recommendation: The go-to solution for severe peeling or when a like-new, durable finish is desired.

2. Professional Wheel Repair & Repaint

A similar professional service, often at a slightly lower cost than powder coating, using high-quality automotive paint systems.

• Process: Similar stripping and prep, but uses wet paint (base coat/clear coat) instead of powder.
• Success Rate: Very high, though some owners and professionals argue powder coating offers superior chip and chemical resistance long-term.
• Recommendation: A excellent alternative to powder coating, especially if color-matching a specific factory finish is a priority.

3. DIY Sand, Prime, and Paint

A viable cost-saving option for a skilled DIYer. Success is highly dependent on proper preparation.

• Process (Simplified): Remove wheel → sand off loose finish and feather edges → clean thoroughly with wax/grease remover → apply self-etching primer → apply multiple light coats of wheel-specific paint → apply clear coat.
• Success Rate: Variable. Many DIY reports show good short-term results, but improper prep leads to premature peeling. Not recommended for severe corrosion.
• Recommendation: Start here if you are on a tight budget, have the tools and time for meticulous prep, and the damage is localized.

4. Touch-Up and Spot Repair

For very small areas of peeling or stone chips, a cosmetic fix can halt further deterioration.

• Process: Lightly sand the affected area to create a smooth transition. Clean. Carefully apply matching touch-up paint, building up layers. Finish with a dab of clear coat.
• Success Rate: Low for large areas, but effective for managing minor damage and preventing it from spreading.
• Recommendation: Use as a temporary measure or for maintaining wheels after a more comprehensive repair.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosis is visual and tactile.

1. Visual Inspection: Look for bubbles under the clear coat, areas where the finish has flaked off to reveal bare aluminum or primer, or a white, chalky corrosion (oxidation). The problem often starts around the rim lip, valve stem, or inside the barrel.
2. Tactile Inspection: Run a finger over the wheel surface. You will feel roughness, lifting edges, or flakes where the finish has failed. The underlying metal may feel pitted.
3. Scope the Damage: Determine if the damage is:
   • Cosmetic/Surface: Finish is compromised but wheel structure is sound. This applies to >95% of cases discussed.
   • Structural: Deep pitting or cracking in the aluminum itself. This is rare from finish issues alone and usually results from impact. If suspected, consult a professional wheel repair shop for assessment.

What Causes It

Based on owner reports and repair shop insights from the discussions, the causes are:

• Compromised Factory Finish: The most cited root cause. A weak bond between the wheel substrate (aluminum) and the initial layers of paint or clear coat allows moisture to penetrate.
• Environmental Assault: Road salt, calcium chloride, and brake dust are highly corrosive and accelerate finish breakdown, especially if washed infrequently.
• Physical Damage: Small chips from road debris or curb rash break the protective finish seal, creating an entry point for corrosion to spread underneath.
• Chemical Damage: Harsh, acid-based wheel cleaners or improper cleaning chemicals can degrade the clear coat over time.

What You'll Notice

Owners consistently report the following symptoms:

• Visual Deterioration: The clear coat appears hazy, milky, or develops a "spider-web" cracking pattern (crazing).
• Peeling and Flaking: Sections of the clear coat or base coat literally lift off the wheel, often in sheets or chips. The exposed metal may oxidize and turn white or gray.
• "It Keeps Spreading": A small spot of damage will gradually expand over months or years if left untreated.
• Impossible to Clean: The rough, compromised surface traps brake dust and grime, making wheels look perpetually dirty even after washing.
• Location Specific: Damage is most frequently observed on the outer rim lip and within the inner barrel of the wheel, areas most exposed to elements and road spray.

Price Breakdown

Costs vary significantly by region, wheel size, and damage severity.

• DIY Repair (Touch-Up/Sand & Paint):
  • Parts Only: $50 - $150 (sandpaper, primer, paint, clear coat, masking supplies, chemical cleaners).
  • Labor: 4-8 hours per wheel of your own time.
• Professional Wheel Repair & Repaint:
  • Per Wheel: $150 - $250.
  • Full Set (4): $600 - $1,000. Includes dismounting, mounting, and balancing.
• Professional Powder Coating:
  • Per Wheel: $175 - $300+.
  • Full Set (4): $700 - $1,200+. Often considered the best value for long-term durability.
• Shop vs. DIY: Professional work guarantees a uniform, durable finish and corrects minor curb rash. DIY can save 60-75% on costs but carries a high risk of subpar results if skill or patience is lacking. For a permanent fix, professional refinishing is the consensus recommendation.

Your Questions Answered

Q: Can I just apply a new clear coat over the peeling finish? A: No. This is the most critical mistake. You must remove all loose and compromised finish down to a stable substrate. Applying new coating over failing coating will trap moisture and cause the new finish to fail within months.

Q: Is a peeling finish a safety issue? A: In the vast majority of cases, it is purely cosmetic. The structural integrity of the aluminum wheel is not affected by surface finish corrosion. However, if the corrosion is so severe it has created deep pits or the metal is thinning significantly (very rare), a professional inspection is warranted.

Q: How can I prevent this from happening again after repair? A: Regular and proper cleaning is key. Wash wheels with pH-neutral car shampoo frequently to remove brake dust and road salt. Apply a dedicated wheel sealant or ceramic coating after a professional refinish or a successful DIY repair to create a protective barrier.

Q: My wheel has minor peeling. How long can I wait to fix it? A: It will not get better, only worse. Moisture will continue to work under the compromised finish. Addressing it sooner with a touch-up or full repair will limit the area that needs work and ultimately reduce cost and effort.

Q: Are some wheel finishes more prone to this than others? A: Yes. Owners report that chrome-plated wheels can pit and peel, while painted/powder-coated finishes tend to flake. Factory "hyper silver" or machined-face wheels with clear coat are frequently cited as problematic. Aftermarket powder coats from reputable shops generally prove more resilient.

Source Summary: This analysis is based on 16 owner discussions from Reddit and automotive forums.