How to Fix the Common Ball Joint Clunk in Your Lifted Tacoma

How to Fix Ball Joint Issue

If you own a 2020 Toyota Tacoma and are experiencing clunks, binding, or unusual noises from the front end, you're not alone. A significant number of owners have reported premature wear and failure of upper control arm ball joints, particularly after installing aftermarket lift kits. This guide compiles real-world data and solutions directly from Tacoma forums to help you diagnose and resolve the issue. As one owner, wuhtang-, bluntly shared their experience: "I have rough country lift kit. 3.5in vertex. I do not recommend the ball joints/UCA nor the lift." (source).

Symptoms

The most common symptom reported by owners is a distinct clunking or popping noise from the front suspension, especially when going over bumps, turning, or during acceleration and deceleration. This noise is a direct indicator of excessive play in a worn ball joint. The joint is no longer holding the control arm and steering knuckle tightly together, allowing metal components to shift and impact each other.

Another frequent symptom is a feeling of looseness or vagueness in the steering. You might notice the truck doesn't track as straight as it used to, or there's a slight delay or "play" in the steering wheel before the wheels respond. In more severe cases of wear, you may feel a vibration through the steering wheel or the floorboard, particularly at highway speeds. This is often accompanied by abnormal tire wear, as the compromised suspension geometry prevents the wheels from maintaining proper alignment.

While less common in the direct quotes, binding—a feeling of stiffness or resistance in the steering—can also occur if the ball joint is seizing due to corrosion or lack of lubrication. This is a critical failure mode for uniball-style joints found in many aftermarket upper control arms (UCAs). As the joint corrodes or the PTFE liner wears out, it loses its smooth rotational movement, putting immense stress on other components.

It's crucial to address these symptoms promptly. A failed ball joint can lead to a catastrophic separation of the control arm from the steering knuckle, resulting in a complete loss of steering control for that wheel. One owner, LivelyBoat, highlighted the financial warning sign that often accompanies these symptoms: "Looked up the price to replace the bushings and ball joint and the prices were super expensive. Also I wasnt the only one having issues and everyone said stay clear." (source).

Most Likely Cause

Based on the aggregated data from 125 owner discussions, the primary cause of premature ball joint failure on the 2020 Toyota Tacoma is the installation of low-quality or improperly maintained aftermarket suspension components, specifically upper control arms (UCAs) as part of a lift kit. The factory suspension geometry is precisely calibrated. When you lift the truck, you change the angles at which the suspension components operate.

The upper ball joint, in particular, is pushed to its operational limits. In a lifted application, the angle on the ball joint becomes more severe, accelerating wear. Cheaply made aftermarket control arms often use inferior ball joints or uniballs that cannot withstand these increased stresses or the elements. As owner wuhtang- experienced, this leads to rapid failure: "Had to replace the ball joints twice in the past 2 years." (source). Furthermore, many high-performance uniball joints require regular maintenance—specifically lubrication—which owners often neglect, leading to corrosion, seizing, and premature wear.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a bad ball joint requires a systematic approach and a few basic tools. You'll need a jack, jack stands, a pry bar (or large screwdriver), and a flashlight. First, listen carefully while driving. Try to isolate when the clunk occurs—is it when you hit a bump, turn the wheel, or apply the brakes? This can help pinpoint which side is affected.

With the truck parked on level ground and the parking brake firmly set, perform a visual inspection. Look at the rubber boot surrounding the ball joint on the upper control arm. If it's torn, cracked, or missing, dirt and moisture have contaminated the joint, guaranteeing premature failure. Look for signs of grease leaking out, which indicates the seal has failed.

The definitive test is the "pry bar check." Safely lift the front of the truck using a jack placed under the frame or a designated lift point, and support it securely with jack stands under the frame. The wheel must be completely off the ground. Place your hands at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions on the tire and try to rock it back and forth (top-to-bottom). Any noticeable play or clunking suggests wheel bearing or ball joint issues. Next, take your pry bar and place it under the tire. Lift up firmly on the tire. Watch the connection point between the upper control arm and the steering knuckle where the ball joint is located. If you see any movement or separation at that joint, the ball joint is worn and needs replacement. As one owner, OneBigPolak, noted during an inspection, even visual angles can be a clue: "Doesn’t look like 4” to me. CV angle looks mild, upper ball joint angle looks mild, brake lines aren’t stretched." (source). This highlights that assessing the operating angle is part of the diagnostic process for a lifted truck.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing a worn upper ball joint typically involves replacing the entire upper control arm (UCA) assembly, as most are not serviceable with a press-in joint. This is actually simpler for the DIYer.

1. Gather Parts and Tools: Ensure you have the new upper control arm(s), a socket set (typically 17mm, 19mm, 21mm), a torque wrench, a breaker bar, jack, jack stands, and penetrating oil (like PB Blaster).

2. Safety First: Park on a flat, solid surface. Engage the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you'll be working on slightly before lifting the vehicle.

3. Lift and Secure: Lift the front of the truck using a proper jack point on the frame. Place jack stands securely under the frame rails and lower the jack onto the stands. Remove the wheel.

4. Access the Ball Joint: You now have a clear view of the upper control arm. The ball joint is attached to the steering knuckle via a castellated nut and cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut, but do not remove it completely yet.

5. Separate the Ball Joint: This is the trickiest part. You need to separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Using a ball joint separator tool (pickle fork) or a hammer, carefully tap the side of the steering knuckle where the stud passes through. The goal is to shock the tapered stud loose. Caution: Do not hammer on the threaded stud itself, as you will damage it. Once loose, you can remove the castellated nut.

6. Remove the UCA Bolts: The upper control arm is attached to the frame with two bolts (front and rear). These are often very tight and may be cam bolts for alignment. Spray them liberally with penetrating oil. Using your socket set and breaker bar, remove these two bolts. The entire control arm assembly can now be removed from the vehicle.

7. Install the New UCA: Position the new upper control arm into place. Hand-thread the two frame bolts to hold it. Guide the new ball joint stud up into the steering knuckle. Install the new castellated nut and tighten it snugly, but do not final-torque yet.

8. Torque to Spec: This is critical. Refer to your service manual or the new part's instructions for torque specifications. Generally, the ball joint nut is torqued to around 100-120 ft-lbs, and the UCA frame bolts are torqued to 120-150 ft-lbs. Crucially, these bolts should be torqued with the vehicle's weight on the suspension. To do this, place a jack under the lower control arm and raise it until the truck just starts to lift off the jack stand. This simulates "ride height." Now apply the final torque to all bolts.

9. Final Steps: Install a new cotter pin through the ball joint stud and bend the ends to secure it. Reinstall the wheel, lower the vehicle, and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to the proper torque (typically 85-95 ft-lbs).

10. Alignment is MANDATORY: Any time you replace an upper control arm, you have altered the front suspension geometry. You must take the truck for a professional alignment immediately. Driving without an alignment will cause dangerous handling and rapid tire wear.

For those with uniball-equipped UCAs, maintenance is the fix. As owner CarbonNapkin advised: "get dry lube with PTFE, spray the uniball like once a week and it’ll last you a while." (source).

Parts and Tools Needed

• Parts:
  • Upper Control Arm Assembly (Left and/or Right). Do not buy cheap brands. Owner data strongly advises against Rough Country UCAs. Brands like Total Chaos, JBA Off-Road, or Camburg are often recommended by the community for durability.
  • New Cotter Pins (usually included with new UCAs).
  • Optional: New cam bolts for alignment adjustment if yours are seized (often 90105-12126 for Toyota).
• Tools:
  • Floor Jack and Jack Stands (minimum 2-ton rating).
  • Socket Set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm are common).
  • Breaker Bar (for stubborn bolts).
  • Torque Wrench (capable of at least 150 ft-lbs).
  • Ball Joint Separator Tool (Pickle Fork) or a large hammer.
  • Pry Bar.
  • Penetrating Oil (e.g., PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench).
  • Safety Glasses and Gloves.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to fix this issue varies dramatically based on the parts chosen and whether you perform the labor yourself.

• DIY with Mid-Range Parts: A single quality aftermarket UCA from a brand like JBA can cost between $350 and $600 per side. For both sides, you're looking at $700-$1,200 in parts alone. Add about $150 for a professional alignment afterward. Total DIY cost: $850 - $1,350.

• Professional Repair with OEM Parts: Taking it to a shop, especially a dealership, will be significantly more expensive. OEM Toyota upper control arms are costly, often over $500 each just for the part. Shop labor rates of $120-$150/hour for 2-3 hours of work, plus alignment, can easily push the total bill for both sides to $1,800 - $2,500.

• The "Cheap Kit" Trap: The owner data shows the real cost of choosing poorly. As wuhtang- lamented, going with a cheap Rough Country kit led to replacing ball joints twice in two years. This turns a supposed $1,000 savings into a recurring $1,000+ expense every couple of years, making it far more expensive than investing in quality parts once.

Prevention

The best prevention is choosing the right parts from the start if you modify your suspension. Research extensively and invest in upper control arms from reputable manufacturers known for quality joints and durable construction. For owners running uniball joints, religious maintenance is non-negotiable. Follow the manufacturer's lubrication schedule, which is often much more frequent than you'd think. As ah6littlebird pointed out, even top-tier brands require care, sharing a link to "Check out their maintenance video 3:30 for uniball replacement" (source). Using a dry PTFE lubricant, as recommended by CarbonNapkin, helps prevent dirt buildup that occurs with grease.

For stock trucks, prevention involves regular inspections. During oil changes or tire rotations, have a mechanic check for torn ball joint boots and any suspension play. Catching a torn boot early and replacing the joint can prevent more extensive damage and a more dangerous failure.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from TOYOTA owners:

Success Stories

"Ask for the internal videos of your car being worked on. Might need a lawyer to draft the letter to get them to play ball." — Chadmerica (source)

"Yes, you need an alignment after you put in UCAs. Yeah soc fixed their ball joint issue with their new ball joint, but didn’t fix their xAxis bearings pre mature wear and tear." — ALoginForReddit (source)

"Yeah soc fixed their ball joint issue with their new ball joint, but didn’t fix their xAxis bearings pre mature wear and tear." — ALoginForReddit (source)

Owner Experiences

"Doesn’t look like 4” to me. CV angle looks mild, upper ball joint angle looks mild, brake lines aren’t stretched." — OneBigPolak (source)

"A shop recommending Rough Country over Total Chaos is criminal lol like everyone else said, new bushings and uniball, get dry lube with PTFE, spray the uniball like once a week and it’ll last you a while." — CarbonNapkin (source)

"Toyota completed dropped the ball with their remote start system. I am not looking forward to paying for the app simply for the remote functionality since the key fob is shit." — BrianWally (source)

Real Repair Costs

"I got mine for $5000 at 150k miles, barely any rust. I don't think they're going to be as luxurious or safe as modern trucks but I've been enjoying it." — jellofishsponge (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace upper control arms/ball joints? A: For a seasoned DIYer with the right tools, replacing one side can take 1.5 to 2.5 hours. Doing both sides for the first time will likely take a full afternoon (4-6 hours), accounting for seized bolts and the learning curve. A professional shop will typically book 2-3 hours of labor for the job.

Q: Can I drive with a clunking ball joint? A: It is strongly discouraged and can be dangerous. A worn ball joint has excessive play, which compromises steering precision and suspension stability. If it fails completely, the wheel can collapse inward or separate, causing a complete loss of control. You should address the issue immediately and avoid highway driving or heavy loads.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Tacoma? A: Based on our data of 125 owner discussions, it is a very common issue specifically among owners who have installed lift kits, particularly with lower-quality components. The factory ball joints on an unmodified Tacoma are generally robust, but lifting the truck changes the dynamics and places stress on components not designed for the altered angles, leading to accelerated wear.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended? A: This is a high-intermediate DIY job. It requires working with high-torque, often rusted bolts, and precise reassembly. If you are comfortable with basic mechanics, have a good tool set, and can follow torque specifications meticulously, it's a doable project that can save you $800-$1,200 in labor. However, if you are not confident in your ability to safely lift the vehicle, separate the ball joint, or apply correct torque specs, paying a professional is the safer choice. The mandatory alignment afterward must be done by a shop regardless.

Q: Do I need an alignment after replacing the upper control arm? A: ABSOLUTELY YES. The upper control arm is a primary alignment component, controlling camber and caster angles. Installing a new one will throw your alignment completely off. Driving even a short distance without an alignment will cause severe and rapid tire wear and potentially unsafe handling. Budget for this cost as part of the repair.

Q: What's the difference between a ball joint and a uniball? A: A traditional OEM-style ball joint is a sealed, grease-filled unit with a stud that swivels in a socket. It's largely maintenance-free until it fails. A uniball (or spherical bearing) is common in high-performance aftermarket UCAs. It has a metal ball moving directly inside a metal housing, often with a PTFE liner. It allows for greater articulation and strength but requires frequent lubrication and is more susceptible to corrosion from road salt and grime if not maintained.