Why Your Lifted Tacoma Has Front End Wobbles and How to Fix It

How to Fix Control Arm Issue

For 2020 Toyota Tacoma owners, addressing control arm-related issues often stems from modifications and the demands of off-road use, not necessarily a factory defect. The core of the problem typically involves the suspension system's interaction with other drivetrain components after upgrades. As one owner shared their modification journey: "Old man Emu front coilovers, rear shocks with external reservoirs, and trailhunter upper control arms. Added about 2.5” in the front, and 1.5 in the rear" (source). This guide will walk you through the symptoms, causes, and solutions based on real owner experiences and discussions.

Symptoms

Owners report a range of symptoms that often point back to suspension and control arm stress, especially after lifting the truck or using it in demanding conditions. The most common complaint is a feeling of instability or wobbles, particularly when driving on uneven or compromised surfaces like muddy roads. This isn't just about comfort; it can affect the driver's confidence in the vehicle's handling.

Another symptom is the emergence of rhythmic noises from the front end. These can be clunks, pops, or creaks that correlate with suspension movement, such as going over speed bumps, turning the steering wheel while stationary, or traversing rocky trails. These noises are direct indicators that something in the suspension linkage—often the control arm bushings or ball joints—is worn or under excessive stress.

You may also experience indirect symptoms related to the truck's electronic systems. Aggressive off-road use or a compromised suspension geometry can confuse stability and traction control systems. As one owner lamented regarding system alerts: "Which sucks when you are actually driving a long distance and or can’t stop. Shame on Toyota for this, nobody wants constant notifications , it should go away once you acknowledge it." (source). These alerts can disable convenient features, adding frustration to a mechanical issue.

Finally, abnormal tire wear, particularly on the inside edges, is a classic symptom of misaligned suspension. After a lift kit installation, if the control arms are not upgraded or the alignment is not properly corrected, the altered angles can cause the tires to scrub against the pavement, leading to premature and uneven wear. This symptom might develop gradually, so regular visual checks are crucial after any modification.

Most Likely Cause

The primary cause of control arm issues in the 2020 Tacoma, as evidenced by owner discussions, is the installation of aftermarket suspension lift kits without corresponding upgrades to the supporting components. The factory control arms are designed for the stock suspension geometry. When you add taller coils or coilovers—commonly 2-3 inch lifts—you change the operating angles of the suspension.

This change puts the factory upper control arms, in particular, at an extreme angle. The ball joint and bushings are now operating outside their intended range, leading to accelerated wear, binding, and failure. The stress is compounded during off-road use. As an owner testing their truck noted: "A lot of you are thinking I 'needed' crawl control to get through this muddy county road, no. Just testing out Crawl Control for the first time on a muddy county road for fun." (source). This kind of use, even for fun, places significant strain on the entire front suspension. The constant articulation, impact from ruts, and resistance from mud can quickly expose the weakness of stock components paired with a lift, leading to the wobbles and noises owners report.

How to Diagnose

Diagnosing a control arm problem requires a systematic approach, focusing on visual inspection, physical tests, and listening. You'll need a few basic tools: a sturdy jack, jack stands, a pry bar (or large screwdriver), a flashlight, and a torque wrench for later steps.

First, perform a visual inspection with the truck on level ground. Look at the control arms, especially the rubber bushings where they connect to the frame and the knuckle. Check for cracks, tears, or chunks missing from the bushings. Look for signs of grease leaking from the ball joint boot, which is housed in the control arm. Significant rust or corrosion around these joints can also be a sign of impending failure.

Next, conduct a physical check for play. With the truck safely supported on jack stands and the front wheels off the ground, grip the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. Try to rock it back and forth. Excessive in-and-out play here can indicate a worn wheel bearing, but it can also point to a badly worn ball joint. Then, grip the tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and try to shake it. Play in this direction is more indicative of tie rod issues, but it's part of a full front-end check.

The most telling test for control arm bushings and ball joints involves using a pry bar. With the wheel still off the ground, place the pry bar under the tire and lift gently. Watch the control arm bushings, especially the lower ones. They should not visibly shift or deform excessively. Have an assistant turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while you watch and listen for pops or clicks from the ball joints. Finally, with the truck back on the ground, have your assistant turn the wheel while you place a hand on the coil spring or control arm. Sometimes you can feel a definitive clunk through the metal when a joint is worn.

Step-by-Step Fix

Replacing upper control arms is a common and effective fix for Tacomas with a lift. This process upgrades the components to handle the new suspension geometry. Here is a detailed, step-by-step guide based on common procedures and owner experiences.

Step 1: Safety and Preparation. Park your truck on a flat, solid surface. Engage the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel you'll be working on while the truck is still on the ground. Then, using your jack, lift the front of the truck from the designated frame point and support it securely with jack stands under the frame. Never rely on the jack alone. Remove the lug nuts and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Access the Upper Control Arm. You'll need to remove components that are in the way. This typically includes the sway bar end link. Use a wrench to hold the bolt on the back of the link while you turn the nut off the front. You may also need to unbolt the brake line bracket from the upper control arm to give it enough slack to drop down. Do not disconnect the brake line itself.

Step 3: Remove the Old Control Arm. The upper control arm is held by three bolts: two at the frame-side bushing and one at the ball joint stud. Start by removing the nut from the ball joint stud. This often requires a special tool called a ball joint separator or a "pickle fork" to break the tapered stud free from the steering knuckle. Use caution not to damage the rubber boot. Once the ball joint is free, you can remove the two large bolts that secure the arm to the frame bracket. The arm can now be maneuvered out.

Step 4: Install the New Control Arm. Position the new, upgraded control arm into the frame bracket. As one owner specified, they used "trailhunter upper control arms" as part of their suspension overhaul (source). Hand-thread the two frame bolts and the ball joint stud into the knuckle. Do not tighten them fully yet. This is crucial, as the final torque must be applied with the suspension at ride height to avoid pre-loading the bushings.

Step 5: Set Ride Height and Final Torque. This is the most critical step for longevity. Place a jack under the lower control arm and slowly raise it until the weight of the truck is just starting to compress the suspension. You want to simulate the truck sitting on its wheels. At this "ride height," now torque all the bolts to the manufacturer's specification for your new control arms. Reattach the sway bar link and any brake line brackets you removed.

Step 6: Repeat and Align. Repeat the entire process on the other side. Once both new upper control arms are installed, it is absolutely mandatory to get a professional wheel alignment. The new arms will have changed your camber and caster angles. Driving without an alignment will cause poor handling and destroy your new tires. After the alignment, re-torque all control arm bolts after driving 50-100 miles as a final check.

Parts and Tools Needed

• Upgraded Upper Control Arms: Essential for correcting geometry after a lift. Popular brands include SPC, Camburg, Total Chaos, and OEM Trailhunter parts. Part numbers vary by brand and model (e.g., SPC 25450 for adjustable arms).
• Ball Joint Separator Tool (Pickle Fork): Necessary for breaking the ball joint stud free from the knuckle.
• Jack and Jack Stands: For safe lifting and support. A 3-ton capacity is sufficient.
• Socket Set and Wrenches: Metric sizes, typically 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, and 22mm for various bolts and nuts.
• Torque Wrench: A click-type torque wrench capable of at least 150 ft-lbs is required to properly tighten suspension components.
• Pry Bar: For maneuvering components and checking for play.
• Thread Locker: Medium-strength (blue) thread locker for critical suspension bolts is often recommended.
• Penetrating Oil (e.g., PB Blaster): For loosening rusty or seized bolts.

Real Owner Costs

The cost to address control arm issues varies dramatically based on whether you DIY or hire a shop, and the quality of parts you choose.

DIY Cost Example: A pair of high-quality, adjustable aftermarket upper control arms can range from $500 to $1,200. Adding in a new alignment, which will cost $100-$150, brings the total DIY parts and professional alignment cost to between $600 and $1,350. Your only other cost is your time and any tools you don't already own.

Professional Shop Cost Example: If you have a shop perform the entire job, you must factor in labor. Shop labor rates are typically $120-$180 per hour. Replacing both upper control arms and performing an alignment is a 3-4 hour job. Therefore, labor will add $360 to $720. Using the same mid-range parts ($850), the total shop bill would range from $1,310 to $1,870 or more, including the alignment.

Comparison: The DIY route offers significant savings, often over $700, but requires mechanical confidence, time, and tools. The professional route is more expensive but comes with a warranty on labor and the assurance of the work. For many, the choice comes down to their comfort level with suspension work, which is safety-critical. As one owner noted about a different but similar mod, some fixes can be quick: "Easy install, maybe 10-15 min max." (source), though control arms are a more involved project.

Prevention

The best way to prevent premature control arm failure is to approach modifications holistically. If you plan to lift your Tacoma, budget for and install upgraded upper control arms at the same time as your coils or coilovers. This "right the first time" approach prevents the accelerated wear of stock components and saves you from doing the job twice.

For trucks that are used off-road, implement a rigorous inspection routine. After any significant off-road trip, or at every oil change, visually inspect the control arm bushings and ball joint boots for damage or leaks. Listen for new noises during daily driving. Catching a torn boot early can allow you to re-grease and protect the joint, potentially extending its life.

Finally, be mindful of how you use your truck's systems off-road. Understanding your traction aids can help. As one owner clarified: "Holding it down will turn off STABILITY control in addition to fully disabling traction control. Merely tapping the button just temporarily shuts off TRACTION control until you reach some nominal speed (20mph or so)." (source). Using the correct mode for the terrain can prevent the system from aggressively applying brakes on a single wheel, which can sometimes induce unexpected suspension loads during articulation.

What Owners Say

Real experiences from TOYOTA owners:

Owner Experiences

"lol there is zero need for crawl control on the road pictured here in its current state, my road turns into a literal mud pit for the month of march and i don't even have crawl control" — whaletacochamp (source)

"Which sucks when you are actually driving a long distance and or can’t stop. Shame on Toyota for this, nobody wants constant notifications , it should go away once you acknowledge it." — duckisez (source)

"Shame on Toyota for this, nobody wants constant notifications , it should go away once you acknowledge it. It also disable cruise control , auto lights, and some other non essential but nice features to have." — duckisez (source)

Real Repair Costs

"It’s roughly $43K in today’s money. So basically nothing has changed in terms of numbers." — Responsible-Food-117 (source)

FAQ

Q: How long does it take to replace upper control arms? A: For a mechanically inclined DIYer with the right tools, replacing both upper control arms is a 4-6 hour job for the first time. This includes time for dealing with potentially stuck bolts, careful removal, and proper installation. A professional shop will typically book 3-4 hours of labor for the job.

Q: Can I drive with a bad control arm? A: It is not safe. A severely worn ball joint or bushing can fail catastrophically, causing the wheel to collapse inward or detach from the vehicle, leading to a complete loss of control. If you suspect a problem—especially if you hear loud clunking or experience significant wobbling—you should have the truck inspected immediately and avoid highway speeds.

Q: Is this a common issue on the 2020 Tacoma? A: It is not a common issue on stock trucks used for normal driving. However, it is an extremely common issue within the community of owners who modify their suspensions with lift kits. The factory components are not designed for the altered angles, making wear and failure a frequent consequence of lifting without supporting mods.

Q: DIY vs mechanic - what's recommended for this repair? A: This is an intermediate to advanced DIY job. If you are comfortable with basic hand tools, following torque specifications, and working on critical suspension components, you can save a considerable amount of money. However, if you are unsure about setting ride height for bushing pre-load, using a ball joint separator, or performing a safe alignment, it is highly recommended to have a qualified off-road or suspension shop perform the installation. The safety of your vehicle depends on it being done correctly.

Q: Do I need an alignment after replacing control arms? A: Absolutely, 100% yes. Installing new upper control arms, especially adjustable ones, will drastically change your front-end alignment settings (camber and caster). Driving even a short distance without an alignment can cause dangerous handling and ruin your tires in a matter of miles. Factor the alignment cost into your project budget from the start.

Q: Will upgraded control arms improve my ride quality? A: If you have a lifted truck with stock arms, upgrading to aftermarket control arms designed for lifted applications can significantly improve ride quality and handling. They restore proper suspension geometry, which reduces harshness, improves steering response, and can help eliminate the "wandery" feeling some lifted trucks get on the highway.